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I just purchased a 2011 700 xtx and am new to Artic Cats and side by sides have always had quads. Is there anything to look out for or things needed to watch for on the Prowler. Really like it so far but only have 20 miles so far.:)
 

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Welcome, I love my Prowler. Just dont expect it to be some thing thats its not.
 

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I'm new to the Prowler scene myself, couldn't spring for a new one I got a '07, in the past I've had a rail buggy, a few dirt bikes, and a Kawasaki Duckster 3 wheeler. Not sure what to expect from my Prowler but I plan to play in the mud a little, push some snow. I also work for the local Fire/EMS Dept. we usually borrow a couple of Gators to use as quick response vehicles during City festivals, I'll use mine this year.
 

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Since everyone so far is just blowing smoke, I'll fill you in a bit.

If all your doing is mild trail and road riding then they will hold up just fine but there are some weak points that will show up fairly quickly if your are a little more aggressive.

-The Tie rods are very weak and need to be reinforced, also the the plate that the steering rack mounts to is quite flimsy as well, no real easy way to fix this though. Keep a eye on both.

-If you ride in dusty conditions the air filter will plug very quickly due to the intake location, Check after every ride if in heavy dust

-Be carefully when in the mud because the tranny will be very difficult to shift when there is a load on the tires, so changing from L to R is some times impossible. Don't pull too hard on the shifter cause the arm that attaches to the shift cable will bend very easy, it needs to be re-enforced as well.

-If you have tilt steering it will get very loose quite quickly, Crappy bushings, cat does not sell the bushings separately and a new tilt mechanism is $$$ so just get a machine shop to fab U up some new ones.

-Ive also had a lot of axle problems but there are different axles on the 11's so that may no longer be a issue.
 

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-The Tie rods are very weak and need to be reinforced, also the the plate that the steering rack mounts to is quite flimsy as well, no real easy way to fix this though. Keep a eye on both.

-If you ride in dusty conditions the air filter will plug very quickly due to the intake location, Check after every ride if in heavy dust


-Be carefully when in the mud because the
tranny
will be very difficult to shift when there is a load on the tires, so changing from L to R is some times impossible.
Don't
pull too hard on the shifter cause the arm that attaches to the shift cable will bend very easy, it needs to be re-enforced as well.


-If you have tilt steering it will get very loose quite quickly, Crappy bushings, cat does not sell the bushings
separately
and a new tilt
mechanism
is $$$ so just get a machine shop to fab U up some new ones.

-Ive also had a lot of axle problems but there are different axles on the 11's so that may no longer be a issue.
Your account of problems is spot on. I never really sat down and made a list but this list should be sent to A-Cat.

The new axles are just that "new" they are even easier to break than the old style and it takes "three" hands to remove the new axles. They dont seem to have any problem staying in the diff with the new locking mechanism but we have already warrantied several.
 

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Since everyone so far is just blowing smoke, I'll fill you in a bit.

If all your doing is mild trail and road riding then they will hold up just fine but there are some weak points that will show up fairly quickly if your are a little more aggressive.

-The Tie rods are very weak and need to be reinforced, also the the plate that the steering rack mounts to is quite flimsy as well, no real easy way to fix this though. Keep a eye on both.

-If you ride in dusty conditions the air filter will plug very quickly due to the intake location, Check after every ride if in heavy dust

-Be carefully when in the mud because the tranny will be very difficult to shift when there is a load on the tires, so changing from L to R is some times impossible. Don't pull too hard on the shifter cause the arm that attaches to the shift cable will bend very easy, it needs to be re-enforced as well.

-If you have tilt steering it will get very loose quite quickly, Crappy bushings, cat does not sell the bushings separately and a new tilt mechanism is $$$ so just get a machine shop to fab U up some new ones.

-Ive also had a lot of axle problems but there are different axles on the 11's so that may no longer be a issue.

OK so I have a few questions then....

I obviously know what the tie rods are and where they are - but how would you reinforce them? My experience has always just been to buy stronger ones...I'm especially interested in this as I am about to put bigger tires on.

How do you reinforce the shifter arm? Again, very interested as I do ride in mud. I've always followed the motto - "Go in 2WD so you can come out in 4WD". And being able to shift from High to Low is often crucial.

How do I get to the bushings on the steering wheel? Do they need to be CNC'd or can any machine shop make them?

If you have any photos to illustrate what you've done to aid these issues, it would be greatly appreciated.
 

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OK so I have a few questions then....

I obviously know what the tie rods are and where they are - but how would you reinforce them? My experience has always just been to buy stronger ones...I'm especially interested in this as I am about to put bigger tires on.

How do you reinforce the shifter arm? Again, very interested as I do ride in mud. I've always followed the motto - "Go in 2WD so you can come out in 4WD". And being able to shift from High to Low is often crucial.

How do I get to the bushings on the steering wheel? Do they need to be CNC'd or can any machine shop make them?

If you have any photos to illustrate what you've done to aid these issues, it would be greatly appreciated.
We the Guys That are BLOWING SMOKE, Use our Prowlers within their limits
 

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Since everyone so far is just blowing smoke, I'll fill you in a bit.

If all your doing is mild trail and road riding then they will hold up just fine but there are some weak points that will show up fairly quickly if your are a little more aggressive.

-The Tie rods are very weak and need to be reinforced, also the the plate that the steering rack mounts to is quite flimsy as well, no real easy way to fix this though. Keep a eye on both.

-If you ride in dusty conditions the air filter will plug very quickly due to the intake location, Check after every ride if in heavy dust

-Be carefully when in the mud because the tranny will be very difficult to shift when there is a load on the tires, so changing from L to R is some times impossible. Don't pull too hard on the shifter cause the arm that attaches to the shift cable will bend very easy, it needs to be re-enforced as well.

-If you have tilt steering it will get very loose quite quickly, Crappy bushings, cat does not sell the bushings separately and a new tilt mechanism is $$$ so just get a machine shop to fab U up some new ones.

-Ive also had a lot of axle problems but there are different axles on the 11's so that may no longer be a issue.
I dont mean anything by this,But Why do you still own a Prowler then? Thanks
 

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It don't matter if its a prowler,razer,rhino or any other if you ride hard you will have problems. It will just be diffrent problems. If there was a problem free utv everybody would have one.
 

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We the Guys That are BLOWING SMOKE, Use our Prowlers within their limits
Never said anyone was blowing smoke? Just asked a few questions...:confused:

The only vehicle I don't push the limits with is my daily driver (my truck). Otherwise, it can be pushed, broken, fixed and pushed some more.

However, I'm a firm believer in preventative maintenance. So if there are things that I can do to decrease the chances of a break, I'm more than willing to do so.

Also - from the looks of your avatar you're out West. Riding rocky trails and sand dunes is a completely different environment than the wet, slick and nasty swamps & bogs we have down here. And flat out - there isn't a vehicle on this planet that is made to get us through that kinda stuff. Swamp buggies, airboats, lifted trucks - it doesn't matter what you've got. It's not made to go where we need/want to go.

I also need my vehicle to perform multiple duties - transport me (and a buddy) to where ever we're hunting; do work around my property; get me (and a buddy) around the various Mud Fests in FL; and most of all keep me from having to use my truck off-road.
 

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We the Guys That are BLOWING SMOKE, Use our Prowlers within their limits

Sorry if I offended you, it was not my intent. But if someone comes to ask if there is anything that he should look into and keep an eye on, and everyone says "oh no, thats a great machine, never had one bit of trouble" then I feel obligated to inform him of some of the well know issues.

I did state that these would be more of a issue if it was used a little more aggressively, can you honestly say that anything I listed is not an issue. I'm all for supporting your brand and I have owned many many AC's both sleds and bikes, but I will tell it like it is, and not mislead people by blind loyalty.

I still have my prowler because on a whole I am very happy with it. Is it perfect, no, is there problems yes, but there is problems with all brands and just because I have brand X does not mean I cant still be happy with it while listing the things that need addressing.
 

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OK so I have a few questions then....

I obviously know what the tie rods are and where they are - but how would you reinforce them? My experience has always just been to buy stronger ones...I'm especially interested in this as I am about to put bigger tires on.

How do you reinforce the shifter arm? Again, very interested as I do ride in mud. I've always followed the motto - "Go in 2WD so you can come out in 4WD". And being able to shift from High to Low is often crucial.

How do I get to the bushings on the steering wheel? Do they need to be CNC'd or can any machine shop make them?

If you have any photos to illustrate what you've done to aid these issues, it would be greatly appreciated.
Some of this is quite easy to find with the search but I will give a quick run down.

Tie rods can be easy reinforced by finding some pipe that just fits over the rod, cut it so it covers almost he entire rod then weld it to the jam nut ( make sure its centered), It makes adjusting the toe more difficult but works great. There are also some companies that built kind of the same thing or you could buy new aftermarket tie rods or even a whole new rack (Rack Zilla)


For the shifter arm, it is just a flat thin steel plate so it can bend real easy. I just welded another plat to it at 90 degrees to from kind of a T beam if you looked at it from the end. This in no way solves the shifting issue it just makes it so you wont bend stuff if you try to be too rammy. I have the most issue with it getting stuck in L gear, any load on the tires and you cant shift, even on dry flat ground I have to bump the throttle most times to get it out of low, in the mud it almost hopeless, I've heard some bikes are much wost then others.

I havent got the bushings done yet, I just recently found out that cat does not sell them. Im sure any machine shop should be able to fab them up.

Good luck
 

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Some of this is quite easy to find with the search but I will give a quick run down.

Tie rods can be easy reinforced by finding some pipe that just fits over the rod, cut it so it covers almost he entire rod then weld it to the jam nut ( make sure its centered), It makes adjusting the toe more difficult but works great. There are also some companies that built kind of the same thing or you could buy new aftermarket tie rods or even a whole new rack (Rack Zilla)


For the shifter arm, it is just a flat thin steel plate so it can bend real easy. I just welded another plat to it at 90 degrees to from kind of a T beam if you looked at it from the end. This in no way solves the shifting issue it just makes it so you wont bend stuff if you try to be too rammy. I have the most issue with it getting stuck in L gear, any load on the tires and you cant shift, even on dry flat ground I have to bump the throttle most times to get it out of low, in the mud it almost hopeless, I've heard some bikes are much wost then others.

I havent got the bushings done yet, I just recently found out that cat does not sell them. Im sure any machine shop should be able to fab them up.

Good luck
Much appreciated and very helpful!! Thank you!!
 

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I think most people know how I feel about Arctic Cat, So I wont go there, All I can say is If you used Your Prowler with in its limits it will be a Good machine. We, Mustanggeek,Dessertcat and I dont baby our Prowlers but we know they can only do so much. Ive had my Tilt Wheel assembly replaced and thats the only thing that has failed on me and it is Great now.
 

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I'm glad you have had trouble free ridding. But somethings are not avoidable, tie rods that bend too easily when you accidentally wack something is not abuse, and neither is a tranny that sticks in gear all the time, so i don't know what your getting at with the used with in their limits thing. If the limits of this machine is to run down paved roads then no there is absolutely nothing to worry about but I expect a little more out of my machine then road driving.

I didn't even get into all the stuff that Ive had trouble with that is use/abuse related, diffs blowing, electrical issues, engine seals leaking water into the motor, diffs that wont seal and let water in all the time, exhaust gaskets blowing out, throttle cable failure, break pads wearing out in 100 miles, ect, ect, ect, cause I know this is from the conditions I'm putting it through. (take a look at my avatar)
 

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I'm glad you have had trouble free ridding. But somethings are not avoidable, tie rods that bend too easily when you accidentally wack something is not abuse, and neither is a tranny that sticks in gear all the time, so i don't know what your getting at with the used with in their limits thing. If the limits of this machine is to run down paved roads then no there is absolutely nothing to worry about but I expect a little more out of my machine then road driving.

I didn't even get into all the stuff that Ive had trouble with that is use/abuse related, diffs blowing, electrical issues, engine seals leaking water into the motor, diffs that wont seal and let water in all the time, exhaust gaskets blowing out, throttle cable failure, break pads wearing out in 100 miles, ect, ect, ect, cause I know this is from the conditions I'm putting it through. (take a look at my avatar)
Im sorry you are having problems, I go to HL to see what the mud guys do, I cant believe that most machines even last more than one ride the way they are treated. Me I didnt spend my money on a machine just to destroy it. Ive worked too hard for what I have. But its you life and your machine do do what you want with it. One Thing Everyone needs to think of Your prowler will last as long as you want to if treated with respect and not abused.
 
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