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Hey all!

I'll start off by stating that I'm NOT a prowler owner, but do have 3 AC quads. I'm also a super-admin over on A-Chat.

I just took a position at the NEW AC dealer here in Minot ND. as the Assistant Operations Manager. Basically the "guy who does it all" at the moment. That INCLUDES teching these machines.

I have an excellent understanding and ability to fix the quad side of AC and am familliar with much of the maintenance history on '06 & up machines.

What I am lacking though is PROWLER knowledge/quirks/common issues etc.

So yes I'm "fishing" for as much info to aid in my service dept. to better serve my customers. Nothing wrong wioth AC tech support, but I admit I don't always get the answers I need.

Any help is appreciated, and I look forward to offering/sharing any info/insight I happen to come by.

Thanks
Brad
 

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REAR DRIVE LINE BRAKE CHATTER!!!! Alot of issues around that and not really any clear "this fixes it" solutions yet! From what I've seen that's the most common issue among Prowler owners. Just my 2 cents..
 

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Welcome to the forum. I thought we figured out the rear brake thing?
 

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Yeah.. I read through that thread and thought some said there's was still doing it? I replaced my rotor and pads and it still did it. Maybe I missed something.. my bad. I was just mainly letting him know cause from what I've read 98% of Prowler owners have that problem. So that way if someone asks him about it he can read what all of us have already been through.
 

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Yeah.. I read through that thread and thought some said there's was still doing it? I replaced my rotor and pads and it still did it. Maybe I missed something.. my bad. I was just mainly letting him know cause from what I've read 98% of Prowler owners have that problem. So that way if someone asks him about it he can read what all of us have already been through.
I replaced my rotor and pads and mine still has the noise. But I did measure the radial runout and I was a little out (but haven't 100% confirmed whether it is all in the rotor, mounting flange, or both). But I have also searched several forums where people have replaced rotors and pads that still had the same issue. So if it is primarily the rotor, then AC has a quality control issue. All I know is that it sucks throwing away over $90 and still having the problem....:mad: Just a setup that is super sensitive with the brake on the driveline.
 

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The Rhino's have the same issues when they have a warped rotor. The Teryx has a drive line rear brake also. It is a internal wet brake style but from what I have read they have no issues. Think about it how true can you make a rotor when you stamp it out? Notice AC went to a machined rotor! The main question I have is other guys on other forums having the same issue, did they measure run out? Was the new rotor ok? For the money I would have a machine shop make one out of stainless/machined and move on. Thats' my 2 cents or check your new one before using it so you can take it back if it's warped.



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Amen to that!
 

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The Rhino's have the same issues when they have a warped rotor. The Teryx has a drive line rear brake also. It is a internal wet brake style but from what I have read they have no issues. Think about it how true can you make a rotor when you stamp it out? Notice AC went to a machined rotor! The main question I have is other guys on other forums having the same issue, did they measure run out? Was the new rotor ok? For the money I would have a machine shop make one out of stainless/machined and move on. Thats' my 2 cents or check your new one before using it so you can take it back if it's warped.
Did AC switch to a machined rear rotor while they still had the driveline brake? If so what year and part# was that?

Joe, was the 2nd rotor you installed that was flat machined or was it still stamped?

I have decided that I'm done spending over $93 for a crappy 2006 rotor. I'm also not 100% sure I don't have issues with my input shaft. So I was looking at possibly going to the input shaft that is on the 2007 and 2008 650's that accepts the less expensive rotors. What I'm finding cross referencing parts over the years and models is AC can't freaking make up their mind on what rotor to stick with. But what I have found is that rotor part#'s 1402-324 and 1402-710 match up to 2007-2008 input shaft 1502-124. Rotor 324 is only $18.85 which is nice but rotor 710 is $57.39. Not sure what the difference is. Does anybody know if 324 is stamped and 710 is machined? Neither say machined in the description.

I have a machine shop contact that I'm going to show him my current rotors on Tuesday and get his input.
 

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With my job I have a 3D scanner that I use to reverse engineer turbine blades. So I took my NEW rotors and my old one and scanned them both. New one had about .003in runout. My old one had a crazy .128in runout. So I put the new one on with new pads. Drove a few min. Did a couple light brake hits then did got up to 50 and shuved them down pretty hard (not stomp). Took new rotors back off and scanned it again. 4 brakings and the Damn thing is .08in out! WTF? Oh and by the way the rattle was there after the first hit. I think having one machined out of a harder alloy would be the way to go. These are crap!
 

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With my job I have a 3D scanner that I use to reverse engineer turbine blades. So I took my NEW rotors and my old one and scanned them both. New one had about .003in runout. My old one had a crazy .128in runout. So I put the new one on with new pads. Drove a few min. Did a couple light brake hits then did got up to 50 and shuved them down pretty hard (not stomp). Took new rotors back off and scanned it again. 4 brakings and the Damn thing is .08in out! WTF? Oh and by the way the rattle was there after the first hit. I think having one machined out of a harder alloy would be the way to go. These are crap!
Thanks for the input. I can tell you that when I tested my rear brake the other day it got super hot just driving around the block. I had taken off the rear driveline and taped up the yoke so it wouldn't flop around. Did several stop and go's to test rear brake. Went to reinstall the rear driveline when I got back and holy sh** the rear brake and yoke were super hot. I find it hard to believe they would get hot enough to warp as quick as what you experienced, but maybe so. It sure would be nice if we had an affordable aftermarket option for these rotors.

Sorry to the original poster. Didn't mean to get this thread going off in one direction....
 

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With my job I have a 3D scanner that I use to reverse engineer turbine blades. So I took my NEW rotors and my old one and scanned them both. New one had about .003in runout. My old one had a crazy .128in runout. So I put the new one on with new pads. Drove a few min. Did a couple light brake hits then did got up to 50 and shuved them down pretty hard (not stomp). Took new rotors back off and scanned it again. 4 brakings and the Damn thing is .08in out! WTF? Oh and by the way the rattle was there after the first hit. I think having one machined out of a harder alloy would be the way to go. These are crap!
Great information, for the cost of a new rotor I bet it would be worth having a machine shop make one. Joes5091 installed a zero runout machined rotor on his 2009 XTX and it was been working for about 45 miles



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Great information, for the cost of a new rotor I bet it would be worth having a machine shop make one. Joes5091 installed a zero runout machined rotor on his 2009 XTX and it was been working for about 45 miles
Was Joe's a factory AC rotor? If so, what is the part#? Or did he have his made? Looks like the odds aren't in our favor of getting a good stamped rotor.
 
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