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Discussion Starter #1
As many of you know, Arctic Cat released new rear axles for the XTZ to prevent them from pulling out of the gearcase. Those of you with these new axles on your machine be aware that if you ever try to remove them, they are not like the most cvs that you just have to yank out of the gearcase. These ways have locking balls that lock the axle into place and there is a procedure to follow to unlock the balls.
 

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Chris

My new axles should be here today. Thanks for giving me a great deal on them. Where do we find the information on how to do this the correct way?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
To remove push the axle shaft toward the gear case to release the
internal locking ring and while pushing in on the axle shaft, pull the CV cup out of the gear case.

To install the axle into the gear case, compress the
axle shaft fully into the CV cup; then, while holding
fully compressed, insert the axle into the gear case.
 

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Chris

Thank you for posting this information. If anyone is in need of the new XTZ rear axles I recommend you call Chris at EAAC. Some of you may be able to do it through warranty and if not his price is very good and his customer service goes above and beyond. Thanks for the help Chris.


Todd
 

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Chris,
Have you submitted any warranty for axles popping out to AC and used the new style axles as a replacement yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, I have only warrantied one set so far and the machine was still under warranty. If they are constantly popping out, I could try and get them warrantied, but no telling when the machine is out of warranty.
 

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How Do I Remove the Driveshafts!!!

I recently purchased a used (211 miles) '09 Prowler XTZ 1000. The rear differential has a oil leak which is ticking me off. The guy I bought it from says he had the rear driveshafts/cv's replaced with the new style but I'm not sure he's telling the truth. From what I've read the new style shafts are painted white on the inner cv's but mine are black. Anyway, how the heck do you remove the passenger side rear driveshaft so I can replace the o-ring seal in the differential to stop the oil leak? I've tried yanking on it and thats not working. I've also tried pushing in on the driveshaft while trying to pull out on the inner cv and thats not working either

I've included pic's below. What do you guys suggest other than lighting it on fire and collecting the insurance money. Thanks in advance for you guidance.
 

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Digging up old problems, but.....

Sorry for digging up old issues, but I am in a bind. I am trying to replace the rear passenger side 1/2 shaft on my 2009 Prowler 1000 XTZ.
It does have the upgraded shaft in it, but the outer CV joint blew out. Trying the " push the axle in, and pull the cup out " is increasingly sounding like Bull#@&%. This cup will not budge, even when trying to coax it out with a large channel lock, and a mallet!
So it was suggested to take the drivers side out, as that is the slip in style axle. Guess what. Yep, that one will not come out either.

WHAT COURSE OF ACTION DO I NEED TO TAKE TO GET AT LEAST THE BAD AXLE OFF THIS MACHINE?? PLEASE, help a home mechanic out.

ps: the machine still worked to drive it into the garage on just the drivers side axle, both forward and backward. The Diff seems intact and working fine. I Just need to get this bad axle off. Any Help, please.....
 

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I couldn't do the "push-n-pull" thing on my own, so I had to have a friend pry on the CV cup with a pry bar while I pushed in on the axle to release that internal spring thing. It came right out.
 

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THANKS, but there was two of us, and we did try that also. Any other suggestions from anyone? This is ticking me off more than the CV joint break!
 

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Some times these son's of bitches are stubborn. The key is to try and get someone to keep the vehicle steady when you yank the ******* outward. If your cat is sitting on it's tire on the opposite side there is to much flex or roll from the tire and you will never get it. If you are on jack stands it is risky cause it takes so much pull you might pull it right off the stands. Figure out a way to secure the car so it won't budge and so there is no danger of pulling it off of the jack stands.

I plunge the axle inward with anger then I yank with very aggressive anger like I am in a tug of war for 1 million dollars and then I fly backwards into what ever is 8 feet behind me since I have so much momentum and force working in that direction. Then I clean the blood from the gash in my back from hitting the pedal of my mountain bike. Then is time to yell "who's your daddy". If this fails let us know. The key to getting these things out is over powering the little pop up balls (on new style axle) and or the c clip holding the axle in place. I have had man very stubborn axles but you will prevail.
 

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Got the ornery sob

Beat the SOB!

Me and a friend couldn't get the damn thing off. SO today, I sawed up the cup with an angle grinder in about 5 places. Enough to be able to get wiggle room to get the axle, cage and balls out. Then I rigged up the following set up to apply constant pressure on the frigg'n ball inside the end of the cup. I used a small gear puller, a deep well socket with adapter,2 hose clamps, and small pieces of flat steel (to bite the lip of cup so the gear puller could pull against). This is the final result, after about 2 hours of trial and error......






Then I still couldn't get the SOB to come out, and I took the angle grinder and was grinding curf cuts on the cup near the differential to use as pry points (as you can see the dust cup did little to help).



While making the last cut, I guess the SOB knew it had met it's match, because while I was grinding on it, it suddenly popped out slightly! Victory is mine with a little ingenuity and determination!

Thanks for the couple replys! :D
 
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