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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Im new here and new to UTV's, been researching a lot and have a ton of questions on different things. Found some good info, but mostly old and a lot to take in, so any help would be much appreciated. Mine is 2008 650 with stock tires, rear bench seat, full cage, and a roof. As far as I can tell there are no performance mods and seems to run great around 5000 feet, jets are currently 138,85,40.

Looking into jetting and bought 6 different size jets(main jets, I think128-142) Then saw a lot on switching out some of the other jets, spacer on the needles, and adjustments to the air fuel screw. Seems like a lot of tinkering. Will also be doing a clutch kit with the jetting.

Mine started to bog down and run out of power on anything uphill at about 6000', had to run it in 2 low, then even that was not enough once I hit about 7500 feet. I will be in utah riding anywhere from 5,000-10,000, guessing mostly 6,000-8,000.

Not worried about high speed and ultimate performance, just want to be able use it in a broader range of altitude with burning it up when at the lower end.

Saw a few adjustable jet systems that in theory sound great, but if they require a ton of tinkering with then I would just rather switch out the jets as needed. Anyone have experience with these?

How about efi? are there aftermarket kits or can you swap parts from newer prowlers. Probably will go with jets or an adjustable jet, unless something else isn't too expensive.

Any recommended clutch kits? thinking since I have the extra weight and passenger that I should just go with 6000'+ kit for bigger tires.

What is a safe tire size to go to without robbing too much power and straining the drivetrain, need to buy tires so figured I would go a little bigger. Can you swap 12" wheels onto them with wheel spacers and lug pattern converters? tons more good used stuff for cheap locally in 12".

last thing I need to do is raise the rear end with the extra weight, bottom half of the coils are touching each other without passengers in the rear. Are there aftermarkets, or ones that can be swamped from other machines, or other lift options for the rear?

thx for any help
 

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Hi, and welcome. What's your name? I am Terry.

I cannot answer your questions as I am only slightly familiar with my own Prowler, but I think there are more than a few folks here that can help you.

That said, its nice to see new folks coming to this site to seek answers, contribute answers, and socialize.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
HI Terry thx for the welcome, I'm Adam and look forward to getting some good pointers, hopefully down the road Ill be able to give some good feedback to others as well.
 

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Welcome Adam! You came to the right place! Great members, great info, and a lot of experience! Your thoughts on the clutch kit sounds right. EPI advises lighter clutch rollers for larger tires. What you gain on the low end may take away from the top end. Jet sizes are something I'll leave to another member (de3), as he is the man on carbs! I'm not aware of any EFI conversations. To use factory parts would be a nightmare! New ECM, Wiring harness, MAP, injector, and more.
 

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Welcome to the site! As for the shocks, Gary will be on here and give advice on that, I think he put his rear springs on the front shocks and bought heavier springs for the rear to help with the gear he hauls.
 

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welcome to the house !

as to springs .. factory ships them sagging some go under 9" on advertised 13" :(

I got from Summit Racing [or Jegs also has them] replacement springs I went with 350 lb ones but could have easily gone to 400 lb ones as I do carry a bunch of recovery gear and have a full cage enclosure / rack on the back ( pic in link below ) ... and yes Mike above is right how I did it.,,use search QA-1 coil over shock springs at Summit. take one of yours off and measure length and ID for fitment size. (don't know if yours and mine are the same0

as to the 12" rims .. don't think there is clearance over the calipers without modifying them with a grinder.

one important thing ... use the right gear and your belt will thank you .... low speed driving for long time in high gear will heat the belt and climbing steep hills using your power in high will also shorten belt life ... pulling heavy also use low , plow in low etc.

IMHO keep the rig as stock as you can with power / tires size / ETC. and you'll have much more enjoyment from the rig and fewer trail side break downs UNLESS of course wrenching on rides is your thing :)
 

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OH forgot ....

newby's get to brew up morning coffee and your already late :)

and also you get to bring in a load of wood for the fire pit ... now sit a spell have a brew and sling some good lie's like the rest of us :)
 

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As usual, good advice!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
awesome, thanks Guys. Definitely looking to keep it pretty stock, just need to compensate for the elevation and extra weight with rear cage, seat, etc.

Not too familiar with the drive system, belt and clutch, etc just worked cars and 2 stroke atv's in the past with chain drives.

Ill be pulling it apart soon enough and will get some first hand knowledge of how it works.

took a look at epi and notice their clutch kit that was pictured had a lot more parts than one I saw on speedwerx, that just looked like weights. Mostly just looking to help with the high elevation trail riding with consistent hill climbing. Do I need special tools to do a clutch kit?

Good pointer gary on the gearing, makes sense. I don't have a tach or speedo so I am a little unsure of what speed to use which gear. If I am doing mountain trail with consistent inclines, 4 passengers, and lower speed Ill be best staying in 2 low most of the time?

One other things other than the jetting I am looking into is swapping in a better seat or highback seat, what is a good way to go or should I stick with the stock lowback seat?
 

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Changing the spring out on the secondary clutch requires a special tool, but EPI offers one. A lot of clutch kits do just offer clutch rollers. If I was doing it, I'd try lighter rollers. 650's came with 23 gram rollers (green), if I'm not mistaken. I'd try 21 gram (blue)rollers to start.
CLUTCH INFO



red rollers = 19 grams = 6000RPM AC # 0823-164
blue rollers = 21 grams = 5500RPM AC # 0823-167
green rollers = 23 grams = 5000RPM AC # 0823-170
white rollers = 25 grams - 4500RPM AC # 3402-483
grey rollers – 28 grams - AC # 0823-295
black rollers – 33 grams AC # 0823-298

17 gram roller - white - 02/375 - 03+400 - part number: 3402-366
19 gram roller - red - prowler 09+700 - part number: 0823-164
21 gram roller - blue - various H1 engines - part number: 0823-167
23 gram roller - green - Tcat engines - part number: 0823-170
25 gram roller - white - 06+ 500 - part number: 3402-482
25 gram roller - white - 00- 09 500 - part number: 3402-483
28 gram roller - gray - 10/650MP - 11+700mp - 12 WildCat - part number: 0823-295
33 gram roller - black - 10+ Tcat mudpro - part number: 0823-298


These RPM numbers associated with each set of weights is only a close guess. every machine will respond differently depending on altitude, tire size, and power adders. the more power you have, the heavier roller you can run for a faster upshift, and more RPMs. if i were you with that power you have, i would run the reds at the LEAST, and possibly even lighten up a set to get them even lighter. in the dunes to run ballz out, about 17-18 grams is where an H1 motor needs to be, and my stage 2 fixed plate work even helps the shiftout even more. it helps keep the rollers lower in the shiftout range, keeping you in a lower gear longer, but allowing you to build the RPMs you need for power, which allows the engine to rev into the power band, and not upshift too fast and bog the motor down.
 

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not sure of the years / dash configurations but my dash can be switched from MPH to tach buy the buttons

as to RPM and what gear if no tach you'll hear the engine screaming louder and want to get out of low LOL .... most tranny's do not like to be shifted while moving :( ... mine for sure you must be stopped

as to seat .. I have a highjack suspension seat for the passenger actually have one each side but took the driver side back to stock as the damn seat frame hits my scarring area from hip replacement [wife has bad back so left hers in] ... bit in order for them to fit I had to cut out the hear restraint .

depending on tire selection a lift might be a must also , that's why I opted for stock and springs to get the clearances advertised back , I find the stock clearances are just fine for 99.9% of my heavy woods trail riding areas including over downed trees and kelly humps [usually only found in logging area's or trails controlled by the forest service] .. remembering the higher you go with tire size the tippier it gets and Moab type rides are not for the faint of heart if really challenging the trails JUST SAY'IN

I been on my side 2 times and scared the beJesus out of my wife both times , not worth the ear pain either time LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Changing the spring out on the secondary clutch requires a special tool, but EPI offers one. A lot of clutch kits do just offer clutch rollers. If I was doing it, I'd try lighter rollers. 650's came with 23 gram rollers (green), if I'm not mistaken. I'd try 21 gram (blue)rollers to start.
CLUTCH INFO



red rollers = 19 grams = 6000RPM AC # 0823-164
blue rollers = 21 grams = 5500RPM AC # 0823-167
green rollers = 23 grams = 5000RPM AC # 0823-170
white rollers = 25 grams - 4500RPM AC # 3402-483
grey rollers – 28 grams - AC # 0823-295
black rollers – 33 grams AC # 0823-298

17 gram roller - white - 02/375 - 03+400 - part number: 3402-366
19 gram roller - red - prowler 09+700 - part number: 0823-164
21 gram roller - blue - various H1 engines - part number: 0823-167
23 gram roller - green - Tcat engines - part number: 0823-170
25 gram roller - white - 06+ 500 - part number: 3402-482
25 gram roller - white - 00- 09 500 - part number: 3402-483
28 gram roller - gray - 10/650MP - 11+700mp - 12 WildCat - part number: 0823-295
33 gram roller - black - 10+ Tcat mudpro - part number: 0823-298


These RPM numbers associated with each set of weights is only a close guess. every machine will respond differently depending on altitude, tire size, and power adders. the more power you have, the heavier roller you can run for a faster upshift, and more RPMs. if i were you with that power you have, i would run the reds at the LEAST, and possibly even lighten up a set to get them even lighter. in the dunes to run ballz out, about 17-18 grams is where an H1 motor needs to be, and my stage 2 fixed plate work even helps the shiftout even more. it helps keep the rollers lower in the shiftout range, keeping you in a lower gear longer, but allowing you to build the RPMs you need for power, which allows the engine to rev into the power band, and not upshift too fast and bog the motor down.
thx for the clutch info and part numbers fairmont.

So if I hear you right you would start with just doing the roller and not mess with the secondary clutch? Not looking to go all out as Im just taking the kids and wife out, would rather spend the extra cost of special tool on something else if I can do alright with the rollers.

Think I best to go with EPI or someone for them or go with the a/c parts?

THX
 

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Discussion Starter #14
not sure of the years / dash configurations but my dash can be switched from MPH to tach buy the buttons

as to RPM and what gear if no tach you'll hear the engine screaming louder and want to get out of low LOL .... most tranny's do not like to be shifted while moving :( ... mine for sure you must be stopped

as to seat .. I have a highjack suspension seat for the passenger actually have one each side but took the driver side back to stock as the damn seat frame hits my scarring area from hip replacement [wife has bad back so left hers in] ... bit in order for them to fit I had to cut out the hear restraint .

depending on tire selection a lift might be a must also , that's why I opted for stock and springs to get the clearances advertised back , I find the stock clearances are just fine for 99.9% of my heavy woods trail riding areas including over downed trees and kelly humps [usually only found in logging area's or trails controlled by the forest service] .. remembering the higher you go with tire size the tippier it gets and Moab type rides are not for the faint of heart if really challenging the trails JUST SAY'IN

I been on my side 2 times and scared the beJesus out of my wife both times , not worth the ear pain either time LOL
yah thinking Ill stay with 26 or 27" tires, not looking to scare the wife and kids. She is a little nervous ever since I rolled my jeep with her in it.

unfortunately I have no tach or speedo in my unit. Definitely need to come to a full stop and let it idle down for a few second before changing gears.

I may be coming out your way this summer, any recommendations on good trails around Tahoe? other than the Rubicon. We usually camp in the South Lake area. thx for the link.
 

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there are some abandoned towns and mines in the area suggest going on line to find ... unfortunately I have been dealing with medical issues a bunch since I moved here from Coeur d'Alene Idaho and not really had a chance to explore .. and now with my "new" eye issue time will tell if I get back out much.

I lived here in '85 through '89 and didn't have a 4x4 of any type .. also worked in Tahoe 3 summers in a row in my high school years '60-'64 and did some exploring on trails in a Perkins powered Diesel CJ5 Jeep [factory option engine for 2 years] and ran the 'Con in 1962 back when it wasn't a "super highway" as it's become IMHO

there are some online sites that are off road related info of Northern Nevada sorry CRS has me right now as to links to them.

to bad I won't be here to meet n greet you as we'll be traveling most of the summer starting early July when house sitters will be available .. my eye condition will only allow me to drive limited hours before they become tired and go into goofy mode [Myasthenia Gravis] so the trip will be at 4-6 hrs at a time and camp for the night . but hey I'll still be able to get out.

the issue causes depth perception issues amongst others so not real excited to get the SxS out into unfamiliar desert trails dodging ruts and rocks .. as time goes on hoping the meds help and allow me to get back on the trails .. all this started around December past so still figuring this out and course of treatment for a non curable issue [i'm told]

not looking for any sympathy here guys as there are many many worse off than I .. just explaining why I;m not getting out and posting new rides .... still enjoy the banter and friends made here though LOL
 

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I've used both EPI, and factory rollers, they both last about the same. Factory rollers are around 25 dollars for a set, EPI sells 2 piece rollers, outer covers go for 26 dollars, and the inner weight go for another 26. Factory rollers are one piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
hope your able to get back out on the trails, gary! enjoy the summer travels wherever they take you.

just looked at epi looks like the outer rollers are $50 and the inners are $60 these days. Think Ill go with the a/c ones and get two different weights.

Do you guys suggest having an extra belt on the trails? do they ever break or just get hot and start slipping?

Anyone run wheel spacers, how wide? Would prefer to be as stable as possible with kids in the back, plus the prowler is already to wide for the narrow trails so another few inches should be a problem. Was hoping to come across some adapters to convert the bolt patter to a more common size. Tons of used razor stuff and other for cheap as everyone seems to buy a $20K machine then put another $5-10K into.
 

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I carry a spare in my parts container on my trailer. Never had one on the trail, just make sure the belt is good before I ride. I've only slipped my belt once in 4 years, and that was balls out at the sand dunes! I stopped as soon as I felt/heard it slip. Cooled it off, and rode the rest of the weekend! I have 6 different AC roller weights, 19 Red to 33 Black. You can mix them up to get different weights as long as you stick with 4 and 4. You can order single or multiple weights from AC. At 3.00 dollars per weight, any that even look suspect are thrown out! I check mine every 4-6 weeks, but that is not necessary. I just like to check for wear. That is just my style! LOL
 

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I also have a travel belt in the ditty box [on tow rig] but most rides I go out on with several friends so can be towed in if it breaks and on the long rides yes with recovery gear
 

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Most wheel spacers I've run across are either 1 1/2, or 2". Wider stance will help on stability! I used to carry everything under the sun, but as I learned my machine, and what to watch, hear, and feel I downsized what I carry!
 
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