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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys , im having a problem with the crank shaft seal on the out side of the wet clutch housing leaking . i just replaced the seal maybe 50 miles ago , when i redid the clutches . went to tune the clutch today and the belt was covered in oil . cleaned everything up thought maybe the oil was coming thru the splines on the front shaft, so i siliconed the oring and splines , reran it and its deffinantly coming from the seal itself . has anyone had this problem .

Todd showed me on AC parts that the wet clutch and housing have been upadate and have a superseded number . maybe because of the leak ?

Soazcat
 

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depending on the mileage of your machine, there could be one of two problems, the seal in the housing rides on a 40mm bushing that presses over the shaft itself. that 40mm bushing slides over the shaft and is held on with an o-ring. usually the seal is not the problem, its that 40mm bushing. i have taken a few out that i could not stop leaking, and those seal rings would have a groove cut in them from the seal, and the groove be allowing oil to seep past it. also, the inner side of that seal ring, is only sealed by a thin o-ring. either two of those places are very prone to leaking. is your leak coming from directly thru the shaft? then the 0-ring inside the seal ring is bad. if its leaking around the housing and larger diameter ring the clutch actually sits on, there is likely a groove cut into your seal ring. i have a few good ones, and a few bad ones at the shop i will try and take a picture and post for you tomorrow to show you what is likely the problem and what to look for. if you need a replacement i have a few in like new condition as well

for the oil soaked belt. dawn dish washing liquid in warm water. pour up the sink in warm water and agitate dawn liquid in it, drop the belt in, massage the soap into the belt which will release the oils. take a red scotchbrite and scrub the belt while it is in the water. drain the water, re-fill and repeat the steps at least twice. after you have washed the belt twice, leave it out to dry in the sun. do not artificially heat and dry the belt. let the sun dry it out. it will take some time to do all this, but it beats the heck out of buying a $120 belt
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i looked at the collar and it doesnt appear to have a groove in it that i can feel . i did start the motor with the collar out just to see how much oil was behind it and HOLY CRAP :eek: there is and oil passage that blows directly at the shaft to lube the outer bearing and it pumps some serious oil . now thats a piss poor idea to use a single lip seal there ! i would think a triple lip seal would do a better job or atleast a a splash sheild to keep that oil pressure from blowing right against the seal . no wonder it leaks .
i am a little concerend on how loosly the collar fits on the seal too . ill have Chris order me another seal and new collar.i siliconed the splines on the shaft because i thought it maybe the oring but after i reran it , its for sure the seal .

happy to hear that i can clean that belt ! it has less than 50 miles on it !!!
\
 

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the seal is a double lip seal, and the oil passage does not necessarily oil the bearing, the bearing is a sealed bearing, the oil passage pumps oil behind the bearing and pressurizes the bas side of that housing, forcing oil down the center of the crankshaft. the end of the crankshaft is hollow, so the housing is designed to force oil behind the bearing and into the shaft and there is squirter holes on the other side of the bearing which force oil up into the wet clutches and keep them bathed in oil. so the oil does see alot of pressure behind that housing. the seals are a double lip seal and do a good job of keeping the oil in usually unless the seal ring gets a groove in it. the o-rings on the underside of that seal ring are usually what leak.

either way, a new outer seal, seal ring, and o-ring should fix you right up. i have them all in stock if you need them
 

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Discussion Starter #7
after looking at it this evening thats excatly what i figured the oil did , my bearing was only sealed on one side ? i got a new seal from Carquest today , compared to the ACseal it looked to be a heavier seal with more sealing surface and spring backed up and the lips were further back on the collar when i installed it .no where the old seal rode . it also fight snugger in the collar. i put it together again and didnt get 2 miles and it started to weep oil into the clutch again . it doesnt seam to leak when i run it here in the shop . im running it with the clutches spinning around 4000rpm in neutral . i ran it for 15 mins before i took it out on the road , couple of hard pulls and looked down in there and it was starting to puddle , (remember i have my outter cover cut so i can see down in clutch housing ). but so far this seal has worked better than the AC ones

now if i wonder if i take the seal plate off of the bearing will that allow enough oil to leak thru and lower the pressure in the cavity with out starving the wet clutch for oil ?
 

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no sir there would not be any way for the wet clutches to get their oil up inside the drum. they would run dry in a jiffy and burn up. the inside of the wet clutch housing and the cavity it sits in on the side of the engine is a dry sump style. it stays dry and oil is pumped to it and quickly flows out so without the oil being forced thru the outside of the housing, and into the end of the crank to squirt oil up into the wet clutches, i would seriously doubt they would make it more than 10 mins.

so your seal is leaking around the outside of the seal ring? and you are sure its not seeping in thru the splined portion? if you are positive it is coming from around the large seal, i would question the seal ring. they are hardened, but can likely be out of round. that would be the only reason i would think that it would continually leak around multiple seals. the o-ring would allow oil to seep thru the splined portion of the shaft if the o-ring was bad.

in order to change that seal you have to press the wet clutch drum out of the wet clutch housing, and get the bearing out, and then the seal comes out from the inside. you did all that to replace that seal? most folks dont even know how all that stuff comes apart
 

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i just re-read your post, in order to see that the bearing is only sealed from one side means you had to disassemble the drum from the wet clutch housing. sorry. yes the bearing in only sealed on one side. the side that goes to the outside is sealed in order to pressurize that side of the housing and force oil up into the crank and into the wet clutch squirters. similar to some engines that have a hollowed out crank that squirts oil to various parts of the engine. this ones sole purpose is to force oil into the end of the crank to squirt oil on the back side of that bearing and up into the wet clutch.
 

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i just re-read your post, in order to see that the bearing is only sealed from one side means you had to disassemble the drum from the wet clutch housing. sorry. yes the bearing in only sealed on one side. the side that goes to the outside is sealed in order to pressurize that side of the housing and force oil up into the crank and into the wet clutch squirters. similar to some engines that have a hollowed out crank that squirts oil to various parts of the engine. this ones sole purpose is to force oil into the end of the crank to squirt oil on the back side of that bearing and up into the wet clutch.

I'm having the same problem. 2012 700xtx You say the the side of the bearing that goes to the outside is sealed? On mine the side that is sealed is toward the motor. Could this be wrong?
 

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I'm having the same problem. 2012 700xtx You say the the side of the bearing that goes to the outside is sealed? On mine the side that is sealed is toward the motor. Could this be wrong?
is yours leaking oil in the clutch assembly.2012 it should be under warranty.it should be sealed towards the motor,not real sure,someone will chime in and help out.
 

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Yes it is leaking into the belt housing. It has been back several times to the dealer. They had to replace the one way bearing at 85 hours. They also replaced the seals. The dealer said it is residual oil left over from changing the seals
 

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Yes it is leaking into the belt housing. It has been back several times to the dealer. They had to replace the one way bearing at 85 hours. They also replaced the seals. The dealer said it is residual oil left over from changing the seals
Thats bull they should have cleaned the oil out of it,sounds like they need to do it over again.
 

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With my 2008/650XT I came up with a similar problem, I like to get to the bottom too! My clutch belt started slipping on my replaced engine. Taken apart, we found that the belt was not worn, just oily and the whole housing it runs in was oiled up. The clutch plastic parts, one roller was broken and 3 of four plastic "dampers" were missing/broken. Upon further examination where the oil came from, we found the shaft seal had a crack in the plastic, close to the outer diameter.
Fortunately I had my original repaired engine where I was able to take clutches, seals and covers directly to my installed engine as replacement. Installed now, I find it's performing well.

My question is, are there better than original parts available? The plastic rollers look flimsy, so are the 4 damper inserts! What about the shaft seal? Can you recommend a reasonable supplier of these, I'm also in the market for rear shocks, one failed, and the gaskets for the v-belt and clutch housing.
 

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Factory rollers, and aftermarket are pretty much the same. EPI rollers may be a little better, but at twice the cost. What color were your rollers? I'm thinking the broke roller set up vibration that caused the nylon dampers to fail. The factory seals are all I've found available, but I've gotten 4,500 miles on mine before it leaked. Factory clutch housing gaskets direct from AC, bit if you are careful they can be reused numerous times. I use long clutch housing bolts with the heads cut off for R&R on the covers (2 locations works for me), this allows the covers to slide on and off the studs (bolts with heads cut off) Aftermarket shocks are expensive, I'm still using the stock springs and shocks. Other can better respond to suspension issues! Hope this helps!
 

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With my 2008/650XT I came up with a similar problem, I like to get to the bottom too! My clutch belt started slipping on my replaced engine. Taken apart, we found that the belt was not worn, just oily and the whole housing it runs in was oiled up. The clutch plastic parts, one roller was broken and 3 of four plastic "dampers" were missing/broken. Upon further examination where the oil came from, we found the shaft seal had a crack in the plastic, close to the outer diameter.
Fortunately I had my original repaired engine where I was able to take clutches, seals and covers directly to my installed engine as replacement. Installed now, I find it's performing well.

My question is, are there better than original parts available? The plastic rollers look flimsy, so are the 4 damper inserts! What about the shaft seal? Can you recommend a reasonable supplier of these, I'm also in the market for rear shocks, one failed, and the gaskets for the v-belt and clutch housing.
What happened to your rear shock,I think you could find one or a pair on E-bay////how much are they from A/C....I had all 4 factory but they are done sold//////
 

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Does Fat Cat still have the Elka stage 5 shocks for sale? It sounded like a good buy for someone wanting to upgrade.
 

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I've had the seal leak oil unto belt on both prowlers at around 1200km.Dealer claims that it is operating it in cold weather without a proper warmup.Obviously not the problem in California.
 

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Dealers will say the darnedest things! 60-75 psi of oil pressure on that seal! I found out the hard way, fired mine up with out the primary on it to see if it leaked. Blew the fixed plate spacer off the shaft, and needless to say I got an oil bath! Ya gotta watch us old farts every minute! LOL
 

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Thank you Fairmont for your clear reply! The roller color is green. Ordered all parts yesterday from Babbitt including 2-rear shocks for $227, not bad. Only problem I had was their policy that they only ship to the same address where the credit card is registered. With me here in the southern Baja, I have a friend who drives to NM for Christmas and is willing to bring the parts. Only way around this stupid "security precaution" was to talk to my credit card folks and change the address to the NM one, was no problem! Change it back in a few days......This is just a heads up for some of you who are in a similar situation or want to send to someone a present from Babbitt.
 
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