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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a new AC belt and EPI performance clutch kit. Tore into and found the old belt with 4500 miles looking brand new. Not glazed or cracked. Measured it and it shows almost no wear comparing it to the new belt. Gonna be selling it in the next 2 or 3 months. Would you replace it, or pop it back together and call it good. New belt and clutch would be a good selling point. But hey, if it doesn't need it????
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I agree Firecat, just have to decide on the clutch kit, now. Think I'll just do them both. New owner won't have to worry about it.
 

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I agree Firecat, just have to decide on the clutch kit, now. Think I'll just do them both. New owner won't have to worry about it.
New Ride on the horizon? LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I was thinking about it, RD. We went to look at that 2010 XTZ last night and we decided to keep the old workhorse and buy something newer, nicer and more comfortable for trails and county roads. So, I'm gonna keep it. Might look at a Reeper again.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Everything is apart, had just a small amount of grease in the cover, doesn't look like it was causing a problem, but... This is the only oil seal I can find that could leak through the wet clutch into the outer cover. Is this the one I need? 0830-189 is the part#
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Maybe this is the one I need! Number 21??? 0830-244 is this pt#
 

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Maybe this is the one I need! Number 21??? 0830-224 is this pt#
That be the little devil! I've never had any issues with the one on the wet clutch hub, only this one! If you look at the inner cover you can see where the oil passage goes that feeds oil to the bearing in the inner cover and what the seal needs to contain. Small seepage is not unusual. The clutch kit will surprise you!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I typed in the wrong part number, its 0830-244, not 224. The local dealer has both seals, I'm just replace both. No nut, he said he always re-uses it. Now, to get that damn nut off. I'm gonna use my battery impact, do you torque that back on to 221 lbs or just crank it with the impact? It'll pop it to 450 lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, that didn't work. Called EPI and asked if was imperative to change the springs inside the internal clutch. He said they will increase the stall speed by 250-500 rpm's. Also said that a lot of people don't change them out just because they don't want that stall speed, AND because of that damn nut. So, the springs are gonna stay in the box.
 

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Off and on with the impact! I lost a nut at Hatfield/McCoys and decided to limit the reuse to three times! But I have my clutches off frequently! New style nut does not need the washer as it is flanged! Red Locktite for the nut! What impact do you have? Thinking about getting rid of the compressed gas I carry on my trailer for air tools!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have a Harbor Freight 450 ft pound cordless. 20 volt. It won't budge it. Even with heat on it. And yes, I'm going the right way, its left hand threaded. Afraid I'm gonna break the timing chain, so I'm just gonna leave it alone. running to the dealer to pick up my oil seals. Gonna replace all 3, the O-ring in the spacer, the seal in front of the one way bearing (which is not going back on) and the seal in front of the outer clutch bearing. I hate to tear stuff back down for oil leaks.
 

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I run my air compressor up to 125 psi and it takes a bunch to loosen the nut! I put a spanner wrench on the wet clutch, and rotate the motor until the wrench is against the crossmember then go for it!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ha, I figured if my cordless wouldn't touch it, my air impact would do diddly. So I pressed out the wet clutch cover (drumshaft), the bearing in the housing and replaced that seal, went to replace the seal in the drumshaft, got it the old seal out and went to install the new seal and my seal driver slipped and ruined it. So, since the old seal came out fine, I re-used it. Also replaced that o ring in the fixed drive spacer. Hopefully, nothing leaks. Pressed the drumshaft into the bearing in the cover and it went all the way, except for maybe a 32nd of an inch. hoping that torqueing the drive nut will pull it on the rest of the way. Calling it quits for the day, gotta work tonight. I'll put the cover assembly on tomorrow. Oh ya-oil pump drive gears looked great, too. Mike's ordeal had me worried about those gears.
 

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Working on the clutches can be a pain! But the up side is you can appreciate how these things are made!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Not sure what did it? Swapping out the one way bearing or changing the rollers, but this thing is like a new machine. QUIET!!! No more gear noise. Its really quiet. All I hear is the motor and exhaust. I lost about 5 mph with the new clutch kit, but I can live with that. The rollers looked awfully cooked and the one way bearing looked ok. But, who knows, it may have been shot. It did lock up when rolling it backwards yet, but who knows. Very happy with the outcome!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Called EPI for S&G's on the speed loss, they said it should go faster with the higher RPM's. I only noticed about a 500 R increase. They couldn't really give me an answer. Any ideas?
 

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What size tires are you pulling? Sure wish we could see the belt when pulling high gear! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #20
28's....Ya, I wish I had a clear clutch cover! Hey!!!! There's an idea! I make a plastic at work that will withstand almost 400 degree's... hmm
 
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