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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys, I have searched the world wide web over and over and have yet to find a solution to my problem so here I am. Hopefully, you guys can help me with a solution.

Information:
Prowler 700
28x12x14 and 28x10x14 ITP Mud Lites w/ITP SS112 rims
2.5" Lift
Custom Snorkles
Speedwerx CDI
Looney Tuned Dual Exhaust
EPI Utility Clutch Kit w/EPI super duty belt
Kenwood Sound System (2000 watts)
Soft Top
Soft Top Bed Cover
HID Lights and LED Light Bar
Double Batteries
2" Wheel Spacers

Problem:
I have a tendency to go on long rides, usually 2 to 3 hours depending on trails, other riders and depth of holes. What I have run into is a constant over heating of my machine. I have modified the fan to include a toggle switch which will keep the fan running the entire time, but this has only helped a little. Basically what i have run into is the same as our 4-wheeler buddies which they have solved by moving the radiator and fan. This is not so easy for a prowler. Any suggestions to solving the problem is greatly appreciated, if we cant find one I am going to fab a new mounting bracket, install high pressure/high heat hose and move the radiator and install a fan in front and back of radiator for constant air conditioning. Problem with this solution is the cash, looking at $1200.00 by the time its finished.

Please let me know if you have had this problem and what you did to solve. Thanks in advance for the help.

Go Deep........Do Big........Or........Go Home!!!

Big D
 

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Have you check your thermostat? Our mechanic said it sounds like the thermostat. We have never had this type of issue at work.
 

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Ive heard of guys that say the radiator is clean and it actually is partially blocke with mud deep in the fins. But if not I would run engine Ice coolant and maybe cut the metal out of the frontal area blocking the flow of air to the radiator. Make sure its not dirty first.
I know when my 650 prowler got its new shoes 26 x 12 Big Horns and I took it to the dunes and it would run hot it did not like the oversize tires at all. So I solve that problem the following week. I got myself a 800cc Rotax motor and Bam problem solved.:eek:
 

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Good point, i added a new skid plate to my utv and the fins looked like the would not hinder the air flow, but they did and my ride ran hot until i opend up the pre cut fins, and let the air flow to the radiator better. Now that I think about it that was a while ago and i never have heat probs anymore, one of my few first try fixes lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the good points guys. Here are your answers so we can move forward.

Elkotrailrider - Thermostat was first thing I replaced when it happend.

Arizonaprowler - The digital display shows a themometer full screen and if left running it will end up killing itself. I also have installed a water reading from gauge this weekend to be safe.

Glamisprowler - Hard to say I just installed the gauge, next ride I will get back to you on that one. Its generally a dead give away that its over heating when it starts to smoke and you pop the top to steam bath and no water in radiator.

Warlock - I keep the radiator very clean, I have a mini power washer I carry on rides that sucks from a tank so thats the first thing I do is jet the fins. But yes, I have had them say that over and over to find mud in their fins.

Dave - Whats the point in changin the head gasket if its not faulty?

I did gather a couple of things from your posts, so thanks for that. I didnt stop to think the under armor would effect it, but after reading I see now that it might be a factor. Mines does not have the front skid plate, but maybe it is still effecting it since the underbelly is enclosed.

I like the scoop idea, I have already starting penciling some plans for these, thats a great idea.

I stripped a radiator fan from a buds wrecked 4-wheeler and am going to try the front and rear fan idea to see if it helps, I have also considered removing the front storage boxes and moving the raditor to a 90 degree angle and scooping the hood to divert air from above and below along with the fans. If this does not fix my issue and have another idea...........T-N-T!!!! I appreciate all your ideas so keep them coming, they really help me think.

Big D
 

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Thanks for the good points guys. Here are your answers so we can move forward.

Elkotrailrider - Thermostat was first thing I replaced when it happend.

Arizonaprowler - The digital display shows a themometer full screen and if left running it will end up killing itself. I also have installed a water reading from gauge this weekend to be safe.

Glamisprowler - Hard to say I just installed the gauge, next ride I will get back to you on that one. Its generally a dead give away that its over heating when it starts to smoke and you pop the top to steam bath and no water in radiator.

Warlock - I keep the radiator very clean, I have a mini power washer I carry on rides that sucks from a tank so thats the first thing I do is jet the fins. But yes, I have had them say that over and over to find mud in their fins.

Dave - Whats the point in changin the head gasket if its not faulty?

I did gather a couple of things from your posts, so thanks for that. I didnt stop to think the under armor would effect it, but after reading I see now that it might be a factor. Mines does not have the front skid plate, but maybe it is still effecting it since the underbelly is enclosed.

I like the scoop idea, I have already starting penciling some plans for these, thats a great idea.

I stripped a radiator fan from a buds wrecked 4-wheeler and am going to try the front and rear fan idea to see if it helps, I have also considered removing the front storage boxes and moving the raditor to a 90 degree angle and scooping the hood to divert air from above and below along with the fans. If this does not fix my issue and have another idea...........T-N-T!!!! I appreciate all your ideas so keep them coming, they really help me think.

Big D
Get the scoops done and report back. Hell Ill buy some from you if they turn out nice and easy to install. I think all rhinos should have them and I have suggested it to some people but they never taken off with it.
 

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I cut out my winch mount for unubstructed air flow. (this alone will probably solve your problem) The winch mount really restricts the air flow..
Then I installed an aluminum 3 core radiator that fits in the stock mounts and location. I removed my oil cooler and relocated it..
Solved my heat problems and works with my Thundercat motor also..
 

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I cut out my winch mount for unubstructed air flow. (this alone will probably solve your problem) The winch mount really restricts the air flow..
Then I installed an aluminum 3 core radiator that fits in the stock mounts and location. I removed my oil cooler and relocated it..
Solved my heat problems and works with my Thundercat motor also..
Yeah I cut that **** out too. and lowered the oil cooler for my turbo.
 

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Same Problem Here - What I think it is?

I have the same problem as well with my 2006 Prowler XT 650 H1.

I use it at our hunting lease and after driving it for a just a few hours, start to have overheating issues as described above.

What I have noticed:
1. Overheating causes coolant to come out the radiator overflow line
2. I refill the radiator (amount depends on how long it has been running hot) and it works fine, for a while
3. It is hard to start when it has been sitting for a while - 6+ hours; and really hard if it has been a few days or more
4. When it takes longer than normal to start, there is coolant in the exhaust

What I've done:
1. Checked at dealer; thermostat good; leak down compression test good
2. They suspect it might be a bad head gasket that isn't leaking to the outside, but between the cyclinder and the water jacket
3. I needed it back for a planned hunting trip and didn't go any further.

So, for any experts on there on head gaskets on the Prowler, what do you think? Is this the cause?

How hard are these to change yourself? Do you have to drop the engine or can you do it in place? Any resurfacing required?
 

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stay cool

I'm not a man of words---didnt take typing in school ,
glassing is surfacing i.e. glass,400 grit wet/dry sand paper,a little water,
place head on paper on top of glass (flat) a little water and a nice smooth
circle--er motion will give you the low spots !!!!! polish till smooth.
Remove seats,carb,exaust fairly easy,if youre some what mechanical--follow the book .you can find exploded parts list at a/c.com,
bottom of page after entering main page.
Dave
 

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Big D
Did you ever get this resolved?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Not yet, we took the head off and tried the glass test. Could see some obvious low spots where it would seal around the gasket. I have a buddy that works in a machine shop he is going to re-surface and smooth out the finish. Hopefully, this will correct. I removed the winch and mount but it still had the same problem. Its strange how Arctic Cat has not done something to correct this re-ocurring problem, I have been on several rides since this started and most of who I have talked to have had the same problem. I will post back end of February after Muddi-Gras here in Texas to see if we have fixed the problem. Thanks for all the post and the help, learned alot and appreciate the help

Big D
 

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If I had to guess, I would say you had a head gasket problem, and removing the winch mount was a day late. I think you will find that once you replace your head gasket, with the winch mount removed, you will be fine.
 

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The true test is when it's 100+ degrees outside..
Of course some of you prolly don't go out when it gets hot.. lol
 
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