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Discussion Starter #1
I finally took ownership of a 2006 Prowler 650 XT H1 from a friend. The Prowler has an issue that I posted on this thread but just thought I would give an update. http://www.prowlertalk.net/forums/arctic-cat-prowler-general-discussions/3358-looking-possibly-buy-used-prowler-need-your-help.html

A quick summary. Original owner was climbing a hill and forgot he had the emergency brake on. All of a sudden the Prowler would not move, but engine would still supposedly run. Original owner took off the belt cover and started to take off the top componants of the motor (air intake, carb, electrical connections, etc.) in preparation to pull the motor to find what was wrong. That was as far as he got before the thing just sat for years.

Belt cover is off, so I can see the belt and it looks fine. I took an oil drain pan and put a mesh over it and drained the oil. There was a very small amount of fine shavings stuck to the magnetic drain plug in the form of a fine sludge, but it was very minimal. I was reading about bevel gear issues and was sort of wondering if I would see chunks of metal come out, but I did not. So where do I go from here? What is the likely issue? What can I do to eliminate other things?

Right now the thing will not run because the carb, etc. is off. Will I gain a major advantage in troubleshooting if I put the thing back together and running to test certain things? If not, is it better just to save time and continue where it is now and pull the motor out and start tearing apart?

Any help greatly appreciated......
 

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I would put back together leave floor, belt cover , air-box , seat pans ect... off and I think you would be way ahead.

Get the essentials to run. Then try all the gears for your self and watch the primary and secondary.
 

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Another thing to check is the centrifugal clutch and drum. Replace the clutch seal while your there too (kit# 0837-016)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Another thing to check is the centrifugal clutch and drum. Replace the clutch seal while your there too (kit# 0837-016)
How do I check this? What am I looking for? Or do I need to get the thing running to check these items?
 

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if you get it running its OK to let it idle or rev in neutral, but do not drive it with the belt cover off. i killed my on way bearing in les then 10 feet.
 

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if you get it running its OK to let it idle or rev in neutral, but do not drive it with the belt cover off. i killed my on way bearing in les then 10 feet.
How did running it with the belt cover off ruin the one way bearing?
 

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the belt cover keeps the primary shaft from wobbeling around. i was doing clutch work and backed it out of the shop so i could finish up the next morning. when i did apparently the belt tension pulled the shaft to the rear and cocked the drum in the bearing (which is actually a roller clutch) and it goulded the drum and killed the bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Quick Update.......

Just a quick update. I have not had time to put the thing back together, but this morning I rotated the driven pulley in the transmission by hand. This rotated both the front and rear drive shafts and the Prowler did roll forward.

So based off of this, it has to be something on the drive side, correct? I have not had a chance to study the parts breakdown as far as how this transmission works, but based off of what I just said what is the likely culprit on the drive side (assuming the motor still runs as well)?

One other thing. The gear shift lever is out of the machine right now. It was originally in neutral (I know because I could push the machine before), but I shifted the linkage down one to put it into gear so I could rotate the transmission driven pulley to see what happened. Well, now I can't get the shift linkage to pull up and shift back into neutral? Any ideas why?
 

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Just a quick update. I have not had time to put the thing back together, but this morning I rotated the driven pulley in the transmission by hand. This rotated both the front and rear drive shafts and the Prowler did roll forward.

So based off of this, it has to be something on the drive side, correct? I have not had a chance to study the parts breakdown as far as how this transmission works, but based off of what I just said what is the likely culprit on the drive side (assuming the motor still runs as well)?

One other thing. The gear shift lever is out of the machine right now. It was originally in neutral (I know because I could push the machine before), but I shifted the linkage down one to put it into gear so I could rotate the transmission driven pulley to see what happened. Well, now I can't get the shift linkage to pull up and shift back into neutral? Any ideas why?
Did you rock it back and forth while trying to shift? I would also check the wet clutch.
 

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I'm not an expert by any means when it comes to this stuff but it sounds like a wet clutch issue.. if it were me that might be a good place to start.. I'm keeping my fingers crossed you find a simple fix! Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies so far. I rocked the machine like mentioned and was finally able to get the thing to shift. So thanks for the heads up on that.....

I'll have to look into the wet clutch and what is involved with that. How do I tell if that is the problem? Any tricks to checking this? I'm still really thinking about re-installing everything back together and get it running to see what it does....
 

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Thanks for the replies so far. I rocked the machine like mentioned and was finally able to get the thing to shift. So thanks for the heads up on that.....

I'll have to look into the wet clutch and what is involved with that. How do I tell if that is the problem? Any tricks to checking this? I'm still really thinking about re-installing everything back together and get it running to see what it does....
That's what I would do, get it running first. Make sure the piston isn't froze from sitting or you could brake something when you turn it over. I've never been into the wet clutch but I do remember reading a breakdown on airdams website. Also theres an online manual thats pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Another Quick Update, but Need Some Help and Input

So I started putting everything back together as much as I could figure out. Most of the electrical connectors were all cut and dry except I have one two pronged connector that I don't know where it goes. It has a black and red wire and it is part of the same bundle that attaches to the reverse override switch. CAN SOMEBODY TELL ME WHERE THIS CONNECTOR PLUGS INTO?

One other odd thing I've noticed is on the instrument panel display. It lights up red, but the readout screen on the right is all blank (just blank red). It does not show odometer readings or anything. DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHAT WOULD CAUSE THIS?

So I tried to start the thing after doing a makeshift battery setup since the stock one is dead. The engine won't start. It tries to crank but it won't start up. So I pulled off the line going from the "Vacuum Pulse Fuel Pump" to the carburetor and there is no fuel coming out of it. Not sure what is creating the vacuum but the supply line is going to the metal fitting on the right side of the carburetor while the vacuum line is connecting to a plastic fitting on the top left side of the carburetor (is this correct)? There is fuel in the tank. ANY INPUT ON WHY I'M NOT GETTING FUEL OUT OF THAT SUPPLY LINE? I would find it hard to believe that the vacuum pulse fuel pump would be bad, but I guess it could be. WHAT CREATES THE VACUUM TO START THE FUEL FLOW?
 

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CAN SOMEBODY TELL ME WHERE THIS CONNECTOR PLUGS INTO?
thats an aux plug and doesnt have to plug into anything. should be able to tap it if you need power to a switch in the cluster of switches by the shifter.

your last post reminds me of why we have owned nothing other than cat's efi engines since the late 90's. went through some sleds that had weak/bad cankcase pulse and would smoke fuel pumps.
 

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So I started putting everything back together as much as I could figure out. Most of the electrical connectors were all cut and dry except I have one two pronged connector that I don't know where it goes. It has a black and red wire and it is part of the same bundle that attaches to the reverse override switch. CAN SOMEBODY TELL ME WHERE THIS CONNECTOR PLUGS INTO?

One other odd thing I've noticed is on the instrument panel display. It lights up red, but the readout screen on the right is all blank (just blank red). It does not show odometer readings or anything. DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHAT WOULD CAUSE THIS?

So I tried to start the thing after doing a makeshift battery setup since the stock one is dead. The engine won't start. It tries to crank but it won't start up. So I pulled off the line going from the "Vacuum Pulse Fuel Pump" to the carburetor and there is no fuel coming out of it. Not sure what is creating the vacuum but the supply line is going to the metal fitting on the right side of the carburetor while the vacuum line is connecting to a plastic fitting on the top left side of the carburetor (is this correct)? There is fuel in the tank. ANY INPUT ON WHY I'M NOT GETTING FUEL OUT OF THAT SUPPLY LINE? I would find it hard to believe that the vacuum pulse fuel pump would be bad, but I guess it could be. WHAT CREATES THE VACUUM TO START THE FUEL FLOW?
Look on the drivers side of the carb and you'll find a pump lever. Hook your lines up and pump hell out of that little lever and see what happens. It will take alot of pumping.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the information on the aux. plug, and thanks for the information on the pump lever on the carb. I saw that lever, but didn't know what it was for. I was looking around to see if something was supposed to be connected to it. I'll try it and see if it gets some fuel flowing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Fuel Shut Off

Is there a fuel shut off petcock on these things like you see on ATV's? I don't see anything. Just wanted to be sure I wasn't getting fuel flow because of something simple like that?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, got the thing started for like a second using starting fluid, but it would die as soon as the starting fluid burned off. The thing still isn't getting fuel flow.

So I hooked up a vacuum hand pump I have. First hooked it to the vacuum port and got no flow. Hooked it to the connection that goes to the carburetor and was able to get gas flow. So in my understanding that tells me the fuel pump is bad, correct?

Found part# 0470-758 online. Since I would have to order one, just wanted to make sure there wasn't a better one or upgrade if I have to spend the money anyway?
 
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