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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Well i am starting to get fancy i guess. My wife and i went out for a few night rides this summer and my wife had to use her cell phone for a light to find her things. well when she could find her cell anyway. i was talking with a friend that rigged up some led's in his pioneer and it gave me this idea. i did some research to find the best parts i could that would match and this is like factory! i found door switches from a 2004 MERCEDES S500. they are black plastic and the exact black color of the arctic cat plastic.




i ordered a led light strip labeled super bright white for 10 bucks. it has 3m stick on one side so i cut 26 lights from the strip and stuck it to the back bar of the roll cage. this thing is bright! i cut the door switches into the cab and wired it in.
here are the results.

night pic


video of it working
http://vid4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/no_moss/cab light/20160926_180348_zpsfoxtew54.mp4

i have push buttons ordered to over ride the door switch so lights wont come on when im hunting and the second to turn the light on with the doors closed.
 

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That looks pretty nice. Now if you want to get really fancy you can wire in a dome override switch like they have in cars. One that will allow you turn on the lights without opening the doors or deactivate the lights altogether.

I have a dome light in mine too but it just runs off of a single lighted button. I have no doors to act as a switch. Check out my thread for pictures: http://www.prowlertalk.net/forums/member-s-rides/18489-scout-s-13-hdx-700-a.html
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks guys. its a fun side project that doesnt take much time but really pays off.


I have a dome light in mine too but it just runs off of a single lighted button. I have no doors to act as a switch. Check out my thread for pictures: http://www.prowlertalk.net/forums/member-s-rides/18489-scout-s-13-hdx-700-a.html
thats crazy! i bought the same switch! i got the blue light and the white light options. blue to use as the door override and white as the master to turn it on with the doors closed. its smaller than i thought now that i see your pic of it installed... which is what i wanted... small. it is another week out though. its coming overseas. didnt realize it when i ordered it. i just saw the price at about 3 bucks a switch. i wanted it to be lit up at all times the key is on. from what i read in the schematics it should work.
 

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thanks guys. its a fun side project that doesnt take much time but really pays off.




thats crazy! i bought the same switch! i got the blue light and the white light options. blue to use as the door override and white as the master to turn it on with the doors closed. its smaller than i thought now that i see your pic of it installed... which is what i wanted... small. it is another week out though. its coming overseas. didnt realize it when i ordered it. i just saw the price at about 3 bucks a switch. i wanted it to be lit up at all times the key is on. from what i read in the schematics it should work.
The switch comes with a schematic but it can be rather confusing to read. If you need help wiring it let me know. Also, the internals on the switch are not very heat resistant so be very careful soldering the connections. I actually fried my first switch when I desoldered a couple connections because they were not connected well and had to order a replacement. Also if you have help holding the wires while you are soldering that would be a great help because the pins are rather tiny.
 

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I used similar switches on hot rod projects, and we usually use the switch to complete the ground wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited by Moderator)
i have looked into a few setups but i settled on this one due to the fact its going to have mostly negative wires running. this should be the best in case wires rub through ect. no sparks or popped fuses. just lights coming on.
the schematic i drew up is pretty crude but it gives you the idea.

 

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Very good drawing! Easy to understand.
 

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Door switch override and master switch labels need to be swapped or the master switch will not work.. unless the master is an override on/off and the override switch keeps it from coming on.. just my take on it.
 

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i have looked into a few setups but i settled on this one due to the fact its going to have mostly negative wires running. this should be the best in case wires rub through ect. no sparks or popped fuses. just lights coming on.
the schematic i drew up is pretty crude but it gives you the idea.

This is the setup I like. weather the doors are on or off the lights are still functional and easy to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Door switch override and master switch labels need to be swapped or the master switch will not work.. unless the master is an override on/off and the override switch keeps it from coming on.. just my take on it.
the master switch should turn the light on weather the doors are closed or if the over ride is disconnected. all of the wires are ground. the only positive is on the other side of the dome light so basically it has positive at all times, the ground is the cut off. the over ride is just to keep the light from coming on when the doors open when im hunting. if the over ride is connected then the door switch will activate the light. im pretty sure its right but i guess once i get the switches installed i will find out for sure.
 

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Ok , your terminology was different than what I use but now you explained it above I understand what you drew.
 

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well it was time to revisit this project. this dome light was awesome! but as the great tim taylor would say... more power!

i had my switches sitting here all winter so i got them all soldered up. if your going to use this location i have to say... use at least 8 inch wire leads so you can plug and unplug the harness without laying on your back. i did the wiring just like the diagram and it works perfect. my left blue button overrides the doors so if im hunting the lights do not come on when the door is opened. the right white switch is has the full power. it turns the lights on regardless of the position of the blue switch or doors being open or closed.

and with the more power... i worked on getting lights under the dash. i cut a chunk of aluminum flashing 6 inches long and roughly 2 inches wide. this allowed me to run two strips of leds per chunk. that comes down to 18 leds per side. dang that is bright! my wife will be able to find a lost earing pretty easy with this setup! i tapped into the main wire going to the overhead light so they all go on and off together. i am very pleased with it. now maybe onto a cargo light haha.

well here is what pics i did take.

here is the left and right foot well lights. not the prettiest but you cannot see them anyway.



and here they are with power hooked up.



here are the switches in the daylight.



and the switches at night



here are the footwell lights installed. i used double sided tape to stick them to the plastic dash brace. i got some wiring to cover up yet here.



here is the overhead light i put in last fall.



and last but not least... here is the night picture of them in action!

 

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That looks really good! I need to tackle this project, some day. I bought 1/4 inch LED spots to drop into the lower dash to use as foot well and a few small LED strips for the roll bar. I don't want it super bright, just enough to find stuff in the dark. I'm just gonna run them from a simple toggle switch. I got everything here for it, just gotta find the time to do it.
 

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Looking good!
 
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