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Discussion Starter #1
So, did some reading and was wondering just how much physical difference is there between the two motors...

Basically what I am fishing for is a parts list so I can make my 09 1000 motor the same as the 2012 Wildcats motor...

I'd sure like the extra horse power... but at what cost...
SpeedWrex big bore kit for 3500$ is a bit much... but you do get 110HP out of it... but at what expense??

I'd like to keep the motor as stock as possible.

Thanks
 

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I am sure the wildcat motor will be pretty close to the same as what our motors cost now.
Another g and get a complete updated motor just have to probbibly buy the intake and tb seperate for another g.

Call it 5g total and sell your current engine for a couple$$ and get a complete wildcat engine for about the same as the speedwerks bbk.

Just quick #'s I ran for myself the other day
 

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Well, sorry I haven't been around for a bit, trying to keep the business going has taken many more hours than before.

But on the good side, I finally got to start testing my XTZ Desert Racer....

And you want to talk about power... I installed the SLD replacement from Dean. On my first few runs, I motored pretty easy, taking a few jumps and nothing big though. Then on Wednesday, I decided time to see what the engine mods did to it.....
OMG, OMG, OMG...

I pulled onto the side driveway by my shop and aimed towards the back lot. No power braking, just lifted the foot off the brake and nailed the throttle.....
The car launched so hard, even with the wheelbase extended 7 inches, the car brought the front tires off the ground by a couple inches (an considering the car is set up to have 8 inches droop on the front tires, that's pretty good). What I didn't realize is, I launched so hard, it broke the rear diff internally and twisted the rear J-arms... I couldn't feel or hear it under hard throttle (car sounds like a cross between a Harley with straight pipes and a Chevy 454 with headers), so I stayed on the throttle until just a few hundred feet away, I was tapping 75mph. I lifted of the throttle and then the fun started. With the twisted rear arms, it was like I had applied cutting brakes. The car veered hard to the right, almost rolling. I fought the steering back and tapped the throttle to settle down the rear of the car and then nailed the brakes hard enough to break the tires loose and slide to a stop, just 15 feet short of hitting a chainlink fence. I idled back around to the shop and we found that the rear arms were twisting everytime I touched the throttle and the car was spinning one tire (even just touching the throttle lightly would spin the one tire). When the mechanic started checking it out, he noticed cracks in the diff case... We are going to pull it tonight and see what we find.
As for the rear j-arms, I thought they might not hold. The kid that orginally built them didn't put any internal bracing in.. so the car is going tomorrow to a race shop in Cortez CO that builds King Of The Hammer cars..they'll do it right.

Now for the power...

Make your H2 motor breathe guys...in and out.. I installed a straight shot 3 inch bore intake from a K&N Xtreme Air filter (big one, 7 inch diameter and 10 inches long). I originally had dual throttle bodies on the car, but never could get the fuel ratio to settle right... and for racing, I need reliability. The XTZ air scoop on my car is real now. It's a true ram air unit.

I had custom built headers made for the car. They are similar to the XTZ Muzzy headers, but built to fit in my car (seats are much closer to the motor, so the original Muzzy's won't fit..but for your XTZ's, use Muzzy's). Mine uses a cross over much like the stock Muzzy, then dumps into dual mufflers.

I also had the heads cleaned up. Some opening of the ports and smoothing of the exhaust ports to allow the exhaust to get out of the motor. I have a little different timing now, but I don't think the old ECU's were very far off from what I have now.

I run an aftermarket fuel pump that is rated up to 100psi and have my injection set at 44-45psi, 1 or 2 psi more than stock. I've gone back to the OEM throttle body, which is 45mm bore. It's been opened up and another butterfly installed to fit the new bore (mainly cleaned up). The Wildcat uses a single 50mm bore throttle body. That 5mm allows about 20-25% more air flow into the engine... Opening up the airflow in and the exhaust out can easily free up another 18hp on the H2 motor. That puts you squarely in the RZR XP's hp range.

Then bump the compression ratio from the measley 8.5 to 1, up to 10 to 1 to use that better airflow and you will be floating in the low mid 90's. I've got a little more done to my motor, but these things I mentioned are the best way to make power from the H2.

At that point, say goodbye to your drivebelt, your clutch and the rest of your drivetrain. You will have to install the SLD Eliminator that D&P Performance builds, as well as once he has the new side case plates, that too. You will need good chromemoly or 300M axles and still need to watch how hard you hit the throttle in good traction situations...

Your XTZs have more power potential than the XP900 can dream of. The only engine that will compare is the Muzzy Kawasaki 999cc motor. Getting proper clutching will be necessary too.

Todd, Chris, I don't know what you guys have done to your motors, but opening up the breathing, according to the AC engineers and from what I've found, is the best way to get power from these things.

By the way, before the rear diff broke, it left a couple real nice black marks from the rear tires, 70ft long on asphalt... and that was with 28.5inch tall ITP's....
 

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As for the differences between the Wildcat and XTZ motor. Same motor pretty much. Wildcat has a 50mm throttle body versus the XTZs 45mm one. ECU is adjusted to handle this.

The Wildcat has a ceramic coated 2 into 1 exhaust, that has much less restriction. The XTZ exhaust is heavily restricted, changing this alone can make up big gains on the XTZ, but be forewarned, if you don't adjust the fuel flow into the motor, you will lean out pretty quick.

The Wildcat also has a much better air intake, much less restriction... again, you will need to build your own intake to improve it..remember, straight shots into the TB are best, with a reserve capacity in the intake bore that can allow quick flow of air in...

Clutching in the Wildcat is better than the XTZ, but should be interchangeable.. this we'll have to see when the machine hits the ground at dealerships.

I think you'll find that true hp in the Wildcat is closer to the 90hp mark. From what I understand, the engineers were having trouble making certain drivetrain parts survive. And that's what I've found too...90 to 93hp is just about the threshold for surviveability on the drive system...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the two replies.

1st hope your ride didn't get too much damage

2nd - thanks for the reply

So going with the dual Muzzy w/fuel controler and open up the intake with a high air flow filter is all one needs to do to beat them commanders/XP's
 

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Thanks for the two replies.

1st hope your ride didn't get too much damage

2nd - thanks for the reply

So going with the dual Muzzy w/fuel controler and open up the intake with a high air flow filter is all one needs to do to beat them commanders/XP's
I think I have done most of that. Got Muzzy and Fuel controler,just put on 3"intake tube just need to order my Filter.
 

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With the dual throttle bodies I got better tuning by adding a equalizing tube tapped into the manifolds as only 1 tb reads map and isc.
 

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With the dual throttle bodies I got better tuning by adding a equalizing tube tapped into the manifolds as only 1 tb reads map and isc.
That makes sense. Did you get it to have a smooth response all the way up through the rpm range? Are you running the V-Twin O2 sensors for the Harleys or the single sensor setup on the PC V?

I would go back to that if I could get it to be smooth all the way thru...not lean out or over-fuel
 

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Darryl

They have been making the AT-300 which is a dual O2 set up for a while now. It is similar to the Harley AT-200 but better suited to other applications. I have been attempting to run the PC-5 with dual auto tune AT-300 for a while now. i am adding a 3 bar map sensor soon for boost.
 

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Running the AT-300 dual o2 which I have for sale.
Sold the pc-V already.

Running the stock ecm with it right now.
Only issue with stock tune is it's running 10.5 to 12 for afr at idle.
 
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