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Started the install today, went very well! The bracket worked fantastic. I had to cut my upper coolant tube and relocate it. Did not need to drain the cooling system, pulled apart the upper hose from the tube and tilted it down slightly to drain. Lost about a quart total. Pulled the front driveshaft all the way off by removing the upper front differential bolt & loosening the lower. Tilted the diff down. Then cutting the large clamps and sliding off the boots, the driveshaft pulled right off. Removed the front flange from the front on the engine and slid the new pulley between the 2 flanges. Replaced the 4 factory 8mm bolts with bolts that are 1/4" longer. Positioned the alternator on the RD bracket, and using a straight edge on the pulleys for straightness, drilled 2 3/8 holes through the frame and bolted in the RD bracket. Wrapped a section of rope around the pulleys for belt length and purchased 4 different belts from Napa. Used the belt that fit best. Then mounted the upper turnbuckle bracket. That's where I got today. I'll finish up tomorrow and post the rest. Enjoy the pictures from todays work....
 

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sweet ! nice install !
 

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I like it! LOL ! Will the dog house fit with the alternator swung to the outside, that was a new bracket design I sent you.
 

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I like it! LOL ! Will the dog house fit with the alternator swung to the outside, that was a new bracket design I sent you.
No, I had to cut a hole in the side of it. It protrudes about 4 inches into the passenger side. Perfect foot messager for Denise!
(sorry, just had to...)
IT FITS PERFECT! I have about 2" of clearance from the side. Access to the dipstick is great. The closest spot for anything to hit is the shift lever, its about 3/8" away from the electrical stud. I'll finish up this morning. Test the one wire set up, then add the regulator and gauges my next day off.
 

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Your Bad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I had a brain dis-engage! I don't know why I was thinking it was higher than the floor! After you run it awhile, just answer one question ; Would you do it again?;
 

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Okay RD and Bryan! What are you guys up to now? Why the alternator? Running a larger battery or??? Needed more power?
 

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My Prowler is limited to 27 amp electrical system, and I wanted to add additional system capabilities. I noticed that they do/did make an alternator kit for the XTZ's, but nothing for other models. I thought back to my racing days and we run an alternator off of the driveshaft, so why not? I am confident that I can shave 50% at least off of the former kit prices (this is just a quick guess). I used a three wire alternator on mine, as I wanted to put a warning light on the charging circuit. Before the alternator, when running down the road and the cooling fan cycled my volts would drop to 12 from 14.5, with the alternator the voltage only drops to 14. This is with my lights on and CVT clutch fan also on. Bryan and I discussed trying out a one wire setup in order to compare which alternator makes the most sense, and we decided to try one!
 

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Started the install today, went very well! The bracket worked fantastic. I had to cut my upper coolant tube and relocate it. Did not need to drain the cooling system, pulled apart the upper hose from the tube and tilted it down slightly to drain. Lost about a quart total. Pulled the front driveshaft all the way off by removing the upper front differential bolt & loosening the lower. Tilted the diff down. Then cutting the large clamps and sliding off the boots, the driveshaft pulled right off. Removed the front flange from the front on the engine and slid the new pulley between the 2 flanges. Replaced the 4 factory 8mm bolts with bolts that are 1/4" longer. Positioned the alternator on the RD bracket, and using a straight edge on the pulleys for straightness, drilled 2 3/8 holes through the frame and bolted in the RD bracket. Wrapped a section of rope around the pulleys for belt length and purchased 4 different belts from Napa. Used the belt that fit best. Then mounted the upper turnbuckle bracket. That's where I got today. I'll finish up tomorrow and post the rest. Enjoy the pictures from todays work....
Looks great.......:)
 

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Well, its done! Took it out for a test drive and it didn't go up in flames! So that was good...
The worst part was putting the front driveshaft back in. I could not get any clearance and nothing changed! The pulley fit on the end of the driveshaft flange. I had to pull the whole front differential forward. It took me 3 hours and 1/2 pint of blood! I was injury free up to that point! Sharp edge on the snowplow bracket, of all things... I still need to pretty up the wiring to the battery cut off switch. I'll do that after I install the voltage regulator and volt gauge. I do have to say, my headlights seemed alot brighter on my test drive towards town tonight!
Would I do it again? Sure! Next time will be alot easier, too!
I got my heater fan and switch in the mail today, so I'll put that together with the regulator, too. Enough for 2 days. Denise is ready to skin me alive for missing 2 suppers! After she stitches me up...
 

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I have all the leftover parts from my UTV Inc alt kit that is in a box, going to re-purpose the alt in a new config off rear axle on my XTZ. I just need to find a way to clamp to round vertical tube in front of rear tire, lower bracket if figured out. Just need time..
 

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That sounds like a plan, Tim! Have plenty of band aids ready! Do you have a mig welder to weld the brackets to the frame?
 

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The alternator takes a heck of a load off of the stator. Glad it is working for you!
 

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I have a Snap-On 120v Mig with Gas, a Miller-Matic 250 and a Lincoln Stick. The pulley is already done just need to make 1 more bracket for the adjuster
 

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When I mounted my second battery on my round tube frame rail, I used a piece of 3/4 aluminum. I used a piece or 3" x3/4" aluminum bar. Drilled a hole in it the same size as the tube, then cut it in half at the hole center point, clamped it back together and drilled and tapped for two 1/2-20 bolts to hold it together. You could make a bracket the same way. Just a thought! I've had my battery mount on for over 3 years, and it has never moved, or loosened up!
 

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Just measured the chassis where my adjuster will go_Option 1 is the horizontal tube that measures 1.135" or Opt 2 the vertical that is 1.0"
 

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Got any small engine connecting rods laying around? LOL Is this for the mount, or the adjustment ear?
 

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Adjustment, so with the powder coating off it it is 1-1/8" tube. Got to use the "Big Boy" today so it tamed my fix for a bit...
Now that's a party wagon
 

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I was wowed! Tim, are you still working on towers? Must be hard in this weather! Stay warm, and safe!
 

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Yup. But I still like to stay inside where it is warm, summer climbing is better because your lunch doesn't freeze
 
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