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Hi I am looking into a 2009 700 xtx that has a bad rear end, does anyone know if a 2008 650H1 rear end will work in the 2009 700 or if it takes some extra parts or anything. Read some threads about welding up the rear ends, really have never worked on these are the older rear ends solid axles or is there a differential in them. I guess if it is a solid setup with no differential then I would definitely consider just welding it up. Any help is much appreciated.THX
 

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I believe the gear ratio's different between the 650 XT and the 700 XTX's. I want to say the 650 is a 4-1 and the 700 XTX is more like 3-1. Am I right, RD? Plus the XTX is a turf saver, where mine is locked all the time. Not sure about welding the spider gears in these.
 

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They do have a differential. Gear ratios are : 650 have a 4.0, and the 700's have a 3.6. Been a lot of discussions regarding the XTX Turf Saver! Welding has been one method, but from what I remember most welded rears have failed! You can use a 650 rear differential, but have to mount the 700 ring gear, also the axle inner CV joints ( I bough complete axles for what the CV joints run!) will need to be replaced as the splines are different. I used a later model rear end on my 700 XTX. I bought a bunch of used stuff, and rebuilt one for mine. The turf saver rears were in production between 2008 thru 2010. Many have reported failures of the unit, some of the symptoms are jerky starts, severe chatter when turning corners, and loss of traction. I have a 700 XTX, and replaced the rear at 7,500 miles, but I replaced mine for snow plowing and the unit is still in good condition!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
THX for the info. ever heard of anyone swapping the whole 650 4.0 rear end and just going with the lower gearing on the 700?
Were all 700's from 2008 to 2010 equipped with the turf saver? Any good way to tell for sure? Thinking Ill pass on buying the 2009 with the broken rear and look for a better one, mainly looking to get into something fuel injected that I can transfer the rollcage and rear seat out of my 650 onto. How are the xtz 1000's? there are a few 2009 for sale near me. THX for the help there are no dealers near me and ones in the my state don't seem to know much about older units. Any idea of about how many miles or hour a drivetain will last for, really no idea what to consider a high or low mileage unit on a utv.
 

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Swapping a 4.0 rear in, and leaving the 3.6 in the front will result in a major failure as soon as 4 WD is activated! Broken Case, Broken Gears, and more! There were two 700's in 2009 A XT, and a XTX. The XTX was the only mode with a turf saver rear. 2010 was the last model year to have it. The XTZ's are a great machine, they have a lot of power! Nice thing about the cat lineup is they kept the same basic design since new! 2006 on up til 2014. The engines have been all the same with very little change. Hours, and miles vary! I have over 10,000 miles on mine. Some units are thrashed at the 1,000 mile mark, just like anything else it depends on the treatment, and care.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thx, yah didn't even think about the front differential. So just to be sure any chance any year XTZ 1000 would have the turf saver? More power sounds great, think I will go that way or at least look for a 700 XT and stay away from the turf saver. Do you know any good resources for parts,used parts, and part numbers for cross referencing? not much support or availability in my area
 

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good news .... no XTZ have had the turf saver ever
 

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Used parts at PowerSportsNation! Other is : Prowler in ATV parts on ebay. I've used Power Sports many times, they stand behind their products, and have a great selection. Ebay has a boatload of stuff, just need to search! Babbitts, Country Cat and others have parts diagrams and numbers on the web.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thx guys, while I am at it my 650 broke down on me last weekend. was having a hard time getting the jetting right and went up in elevation and back down, adjusted things a fews times. Either never got it lean enough for the elevation or I got it too rich went I adjutsted on the way down. Just couldn't seem to get the fueling right(it was almost hard to tell if I was too rich or a bit lean) wan getting real good power at full throttle and couldn't get nearly as much mph out of it as I did not my way up and did smell a bit of burning from the belt after I stopped on the way up and had been working it a bit., but nothing really bad. Anyway figured I would let it sit overnight after the last adjustment, make a quick run in it, then if it wasn't right I was going to pull the plug and see how it looked. Didn't get that far as it still didn't have the power and then I had a big noise and lost the gears or belt went. At first couldn't get it out of gear and into N, was finally able to get it into neutral and tow it back to the trailer. Just now opened the housing belt was wrapped up and twisted around the primary clutch plates( the area it normally rides on) and was wrapped all around the secondary spring and housing. Is this what normally happens when the belt goes? or does it sounds like I might had something else bind up and cause the problem? thx
 

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Ya, when they start lugging down in HIGH, toss it into LOW. We were climbing out of a creek last weekend mine started smelling hot, too. I haven't pulled the cover, I think I saved it by shoving it into LOW right away. But.... I gotta pull it and check it. Time for different clutching and rollers, anyway since I changed the tire sizing.
 

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Yup, belts will tangle up nicely! Usually a b---- to remove! I cut the hell out of them, claen the clutch plates with brake/carb cleaner scuff with a scrotchbrite pad and you should be good to go!
 
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