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Repalced my rear disc due to the old disk being warped and causing the brake pads to rattle when brake is applied, now my rear diff is spewing gear oil out of the vent tube. I adjusted my parking brake thinking that it was set to tight causing the rear end to over heat but its still spewing oil. Any ideas???????:confused:
 

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Repalced my rear disc due to the old disk being warped and causing the brake pads to rattle when brake is applied, now my rear diff is spewing gear oil out of the vent tube. I adjusted my parking brake thinking that it was set to tight causing the rear end to over heat but its still spewing oil. Any ideas???????:confused:
There are a few different fixes for this. I added a second expandable bellows and some longer line to mine. No more leaks.
 

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what do think is making the rear end get so hot??? my factory bellow blew out so I added an 18 inch vent line without a bellow but its still losing oil. I guess i can try adding more line and another bellow Im just concerned about the rear end getting so hot. It seems like there might be something else wrong unless these things are designed to do that hence the bellow instead of the open line vent tube...
 

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what do think is making the rear end get so hot??? my factory bellow blew out so I added an 18 inch vent line without a bellow but its still losing oil. I guess i can try adding more line and another bellow Im just concerned about the rear end getting so hot. It seems like there might be something else wrong unless these things are designed to do that hence the bellow instead of the open line vent tube...
Mine did it too. Even when the parking brake was so far out of adjustment it didn't work at all it still got hot. I wrapped my exhaust from head to muffler with header wrap and that helped alot. The header pipe put out so much heat I wondered if that didn't contribute to the diff heat, even the frame tube that run close to the pipe would get too hot to touch. The extra bellows + header wrap has done the trick for me, no more lost fluid. Then again maybe the diff just gets hot from mechanical drag and quits after a few hundred miles?
 

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Is this a problem on all models or just some? I have a xtz and smelled gear lube once after a high speed run but didnt see anything.
 

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from what ive read from all feedback and other research ive done i think it all depends on how how hot the diff gets on any model. My bellow dry rotted and thats why i got oil all over the muffler which caused a fire i was able to put out with a little bottled water. If you smell oil after a long fast run first make sure your not on fire then inspect your bellow. I just did an experiment that cleared up alot of quetions i had. I put a 48" line on my diff and put the end of the line in an empty mason jar and held it in my hand while i ran down the road at around 40mph. After 2 min the oil started pouring into the jar. I it only spilled about 2 oz. of oil in the jar so i think a 24" hose with a new bellow attached to the end will solve my problem. Whats the best way to check your oil level on the rear diff? I think its supposed to be 1 inch below the fill hole on an 06 model.
 

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Try replacing your factory differential fluids with Mobil 1 synthetic 75w-140 gear lube. I ran my XTZ about 50 miles before I changed it. Used the factory stuff as a break in fluid. "Supposedly" the factory fluid will expand (and weep from the bellows) if you road/trail ride for extended periods. Have had no issues with the Mobil 1. This was recommended by my dealer's mechanic btw.
 

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I was just logging on here to post the exact same topic. We just picked our Prowler up 3 days ago and noticed the rear diff was puking throught the vent line. We also noticed it was abnormaly hot compared to the rear diffs in our other 3 machines.

I also noticed a vibration/rattle while braking. I guess this is contributed to the warped rear rotor as the we had the dealer replace the caliper and brake pads before we bought it. I also noticed the rear diff was leaking before we bought.

The dealer nor I could determine where it was coming from. He agreed to replace the rear seals with updated ones and change the fluid. I thought we bought a "lemon" but I guess there are normal problems.

I am glad these are some things I can fix relatively easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dont go out and buy a new rotor the factory ones are on recall but i had mine replaced along with new brake pads and my brakes are still rattling very loudly when the brakes are applied. Not sure how to fix this problem yet.
 

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Well my dealer did tell me the rear brakes may need adjusting. He tried to tell me how to do it but I will just read the manual instead of going by word of mouth.

I figure the adjusting them will get rid of the rattle since it makes sense that the pads would cause it. I racked my brain trying to determine where the sound was coming from. My wife was like, "You are an engineer, you are supposed to be able to figure these things out!" I insisted it was coming from the brakes, but just couldn't figure out how!

Now I know! Thanks!
 

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Do a little searching for rear diff and diff vents guys. The issues with the bellows is they don't allow the diff to breath, it is still under pressure. An actuall diff vent is needed but you can't just add it to your breather tube. There is way to much turblance in there when your running hard it will just keep puking. A new vent hole needs to be drilled in the side case in a dry cavity to allow the diff to breath. I have done this to my rear diff and now more leaks.



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Desertcat got any pics of were to drill? Thanks
 
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