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Discussion Starter #1
I searched the site looking for a manual to download and can't find anything. I see old threads but they no longer have the link for the download!
So I have the cam shaft marks lined up, lobe facing forward, piston at top dead center. Having no manual I question where the marks are on the flywheel? Other bikes I've seen cam sprocket marks and a dot on the cam chain. I'd just guess the chain doesn't care where it goes and as long as the piston is at top dead center and the cam is set on the marks I would be ready to assemble or tear it down? Anything I may be missing here?
Thanks in advance :)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I may have found the download in the sticky above. Stupid me!?
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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whew was worried about ya boy :)
 

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Not a bad job rebuilding the top end, only thing the manual fails to tell you is the head bolts can't be reused. New bolts are required on a cylinder, or head removal. I found out the hard way by snapping off several bolts. When setting the timing, I usually pull the stator cover off, and use the nut to rotate the engine. Also the timing marks are on that side so it works pretty good. I had a local shop make up some studs for my engine, I now use 3 studs, and one factory bolt on the cylinder and head.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Been searching the online manual and can't seem to find any timing marks on the fly wheel side. I took that black cover off. Only thing I see is a hole and a tiny mark on the fly wheel nut. Am I missing something?
 

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There is a socket plug on the passenger side of the engine, remove that and you are looking at the flywheel. Just make sure you are on the compression stroke when you line up the mark. After I get mine to TDC I put a socket and breaker bar on the flywheel nut to keep it from moving, rests perfect on the fuel tank! Always glad to help someone across the lake! LOL
 

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Been searching the online manual and can't seem to find any timing marks on the fly wheel side. I took that black cover off. Only thing I see is a hole and a tiny mark on the fly wheel nut. Am I missing something?
It's on the passenger side and takes an allen wrench. You'll see the mark on the case itself and on the flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Not a bad job rebuilding the top end, only thing the manual fails to tell you is the head bolts can't be reused. New bolts are required on a cylinder, or head removal. I found out the hard way by snapping off several bolts. When setting the timing, I usually pull the stator cover off, and use the nut to rotate the engine. Also the timing marks are on that side so it works pretty good. I had a local shop make up some studs for my engine, I now use 3 studs, and one factory bolt on the cylinder and head.
18 bucks a piece for those head bolts!:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I put the used bolts back in. Used my EWAG torque wrench to tighten them down so I wouldn't snap them off. EWAG= ESTIMATED WILD ASS GUESS..:D
 

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That was why I had some studs made up, now I only use one factory bolt (left front, oil passage and the reduced shank stud is needed), and 3 studs, I replace the nuts each change (2.00 bucks for the three of them)
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
That was why I had some studs made up, now I only use one factory bolt (left front, oil passage and the reduced shank stud is needed), and 3 studs, I replace the nuts each change (2.00 bucks for the three of them)
Are we all working on the same machine here? All 4 of my studs are identical! I even pulled them out to try and figure out the difference that Fairmont say's about the left front. Nothing different.

SO NOW MY NEW PROBLEM! Got her all back together and the 3rd nightmare begins, NO COMPRESSION!!! I think my question would be can it be totally out of time and be on the intake side due to the cam being installed half ways out of turn? The manual freaks me out. It says Quote: With the cam lobes directed down (toward the piston),
maneuver the camshaft/sprocket assembly
through the chain and towards its seating position;
then loop the chain over the sprocket.
My point on this is there are 2 cam lobes and to have the marks lined up on the case neither cam lobe is facing down! AM I JUST PLAIN STUPID? Why is it I can't see what they are telling me as far as cam installation?
THIS IS THE FINAL CHECK LIST BEFORE INSTALLING THE TOP. QUOTE:
A. Piston still at top-dead-center. (IT IS)
B. Camshaft lobes directed down (toward the piston). (THEY ARE NOT BECAUSE THEY CAN'T, ONE LOBE POINTS FORWARD, THE OTHER BACK IF YOU LINE UP WITH THE CASE)
C. Camshaft alignment marks parallel to the valve
cover mating surface. (THEY ARE) but THE CAM LOBES ARE FACING FORWARD AND BACK NOT DOWN TOWARD THE PISTON LIKE THE MANUAL SAYS!!!
D. Recessed side of the sprocket directed toward
the cam lobes. (IT IS)
E. Camshaft alignment pin and sprocket alignment
hole (smallest) are aligned. (IT IS)

B&C CAN'T HAPPEN! It's not possible.

PLEASE HELP BEFORE I GO NUTS!:eek:
 

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It's been a while since I installed the cam in my old engine but I did find a pic of the cam alignment, I wish I had the old engine to look at but I don't think the were lobes straight down but were angled downward.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's been a while since I installed the cam in my old engine but I did find a pic of the cam alignment, I wish I had the old engine to look at but I don't think the were lobes straight down but were angled downward.
That photo may help mlh. One thing I noticed was when I set the fly wheel timing mark at top dead center the cam alignment marks were off maybe like 9:30 -3:30 not 9:00-3:00. That bothered me but I saw a post where another member had the same issue. Don't know what the outcome was for that???
I'm confused on this "lobe position" the manual states. It doesn't make sense to me!!!
 

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You want both lobes in the up position (lobes very slightly slanted up), no pressure on the valves, and the alignment mark on the cam straight across. I try to pull the timing chain up tight on the backside to check my marks. You usually have to try it more than once!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You want both lobes in the up position (lobes very slightly slanted up), no pressure on the valves, and the alignment mark on the cam straight across. I try to pull the timing chain up tight on the backside to check my marks. You usually have to try it more than once!
That was the way I did it Fairmont, BUT which lobe faces forward and which back? Wouldn't that put the cam out of time if it was the opposite of what it's suppose to be? Say the driver side lobe faces forward, passenger size back, what if it was reversed?
 

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Place your cam in the head with the cam timing marks lined up, look at it in both positions, you should be able to tell which way has the lobes down. I need to correct myself! The lobes will point slightly down! Me Bad! I had to go look at the manual! Sorry for any grief I may have caused you!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Place your cam in the head with the cam timing marks lined up, look at it in both positions, you should be able to tell which way has the lobes down. I need to correct myself! The lobes will point slightly down! Me Bad! I had to go look at the manual! Sorry for any grief I may have caused you!
This post was a big help Fairmont. It got me pointed in the right direction. FINISHED my rebuild and running great!
THANKS TO ALL AND THE PROWLERTALK.NET FORUM
 
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