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Discussion Starter #1
So other other day when I ran down the road 3 miles to plow out my neighbour......yes!! in April!!....... I noticed that my good old girl seemed a little.....ok....a lotta squirrelly and I gave it into having the blade, travelling on snowy rutted roads and so on. Today I took the blade off and took her for a rip, and yes she is very squirrelly. Ok.....so I pulled her into the garage, jacked up the front end, tie strapped the steering wheel centred and solid and then checked the looseness of things. Actually I was pleasantly surprised with how there seemed to be no movement in bushings or the tie rod end. I did notice movement of the rack & pinion and had actually read and saved the thread where fixes were mentioned by both Bryan and Tim (Diesel Rear) to make that solid. So then I decided to check my toe-in/out. Sheeesh!!!!! Using the string method to centre of tire front and back I found that on the driver's side it was toe-out of 3/8"and the passenger side was toe-out of 1/8". Ah ha!!! the culprit. However, as I went to adjust it I can't get the tie rod to break loose from the jam nut. They had the jam threaded all the way up to starting to cover up the flats on the tie rod. I've sprayed penetrant down the tie rod and hopefully it will work. I guess I'm wondering.......these aren't LH threads are they?

EDIT: This is side 2....... have sprayed the penetrant after the pic was taken!!

Thanks.
 

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I've had the same problem since I have the new longer nuts like you have, Arctic Cat made them that way to strengthen the threaded area that was prone to bending. The dang thing fills up with mud and corrodes the threads, your best bet is to remove the adjustment nut and retap the threads on the tie rod. I need to pick up some anti seize and see if that helps.

Update: To clarify a little, there's only about 3/4" of threads on the wheel side of the adjustment nut, the rest of it is just a sleeve that covers the treads on the tie rod.
 

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I forgot to answer your question, they are right handed threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mike, thanks for the sharing of experience. I'll definitely run the rod through a die and while I'm at it I'll tap the nut as well. I just gotta get it to break loose 1st. I can turn the whole nut/rod assembly on the rod end and so I'll screw it out and then put a pipe wrench or vise grips on the rod, get it solid, and then hit that lock nut with an impact. if that fails, I guess I'll use some heat at well as the penetrating fluid. Just don't want to bend the rod up!! Would be my luck!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
And oh......thanks on the RH nut thing. I really did know that they were. Could't imagine that they would change the thread direction somewhere mid rod!! I was just surprised, I think, that I couldn't get it to move at all!!!!
 

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That's pretty much what I did, I screwed the tie rod out of the tie rod end and then took the nut off and cleaned up the threads on the rod.
 

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use of the victor wrench is what I had to do and do once a year as they seem to "re-adjust" easily no matter how tight even using the red stuff

after last winters [2017] use of the rig down in Arizona in the bolder gardens i need to do a real wheel off the ground inspection and re-align the wheel to steering box and then the toe issue both sides as I can visually see it's off both sides
 

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When it finally warms up outside I think I might pull mine off again and clean them up good and put some anti seize on the threads and maybe some silicone or something on the sleeve end of the nut to keep mud and moisture out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Arg.........no time today to get to work at getting that jam nut to turn on the tie rod. Life is soooooo........well.......life!!!

Mike.......I was thinking the same thing of silicone at the top of the nut and I've got some anti seize somewhere, if I can find it!! I think it's a good idea. I used to have one of those round mirrored 3/4 door ford pickups, and those dang 2 back spark plug accesses would fill with water and rust stuff in soooooo bad. Anti seize helped, but wasn't the cure all!! What a nightmare it was to have to insert those cylinders!!!! Anyway, that was some time ago and I haven't had much use for the anti seize since......thus the 'if I can find it' statement! ;)
 

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I must have 5 containers of anti-seize in my shop, and I may locate one on a good day! Heat and penetrating oil always work.
 

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I need to do mine too. I seldom get over 15 mph here on the farm/ranch, but going on the road related the fires, anything over 15 was a thrill (and scary) ride as it went anywhere but straight on the packed sand road. I seem to recall that there is a good thread here on how to do the front alignment to make it drive correctly. I will find it and follow the instructions.
 

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I set mine at 1/8" toed in. What a difference it makes!
 

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Toe out seems to make it jump from side to side when on gravel and snowy roads with the plow hanging off the front. Toe in really makes the steering more stable and predictable!
 
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