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Does anyone have the cylinder head torque specs handy? I'm heading out of town and won't access to this forum.

I have 2006 model and am replacing the head gasket next week at my ranch.

Could you please email them to: [email protected]

Thanks!
 

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Email sent..
For anyone else wanting to know it's 40 ft lbs..
Also CHANGE your head bolts.. They are torque to yield (They Stretch) And should be replaced evrytime you remove them. And it doesn't tell you in the service manual! At least it doesn't in the 2006-2008 manuals..
 

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Email sent..
For anyone else wanting to know it's 40 ft lbs..
Also CHANGE your head bolts.. They are torque to yield (They Stretch) And should be replaced evrytime you remove them. And it doesn't tell you in the service manual! At least it doesn't in the 2006-2008 manuals..

Hey i am stoked how fast you guys have this information! Every thread i read someone has the info right away.

good info 1 Phat Cat
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks much! I have another new, worse problen from this weekend :( New post coming in a few.
 

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Email sent..
For anyone else wanting to know it's 40 ft lbs..
Also CHANGE your head bolts.. They are torque to yield (They Stretch) And should be replaced evrytime you remove them. And it doesn't tell you in the service manual! At least it doesn't in the 2006-2008 manuals..
on a 650h1 prowler dose the rear end stay positive all the time
 

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Yes on the 650 rear end, always locked! The 700 XTX was the only one equipped with the turf saver rear end and only 2008, 2009, and 2010 model years were the only years so equipped.
 

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I wish the manual would point out one time use on the head bolts! I broke 2 when I replaced a head gasket. Got mad and made up hardened steel metric studs with class 10 metric flange nuts. I no longer have to change 20.00 dollar (per bolt!) bolts each time I take the head off! Nuts are 75 cents each, and I bought a box! New nuts each time.
 

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Man thats good news to know iv blown mine as well I have a 650 with a 700 kit and have blown the head 3 times and have tried different things each time to prevent it from not blowing. Yeah your right this site people have answer right away I should have found and joins a long time ago but live and learn. Great site guys helps out a lot.
 

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I'm guessing that you are running a copper head gasket? I made up the metric studs for mine went about 1 1/4 " longer than stock head bolt. One thing to watch for is an oil passage in the head that feeds the cam. It is located in the front driver side head bolt hole. I burned up a rocker arm because I starved it for oil! I have my machine shop reducing the shank of my one stud at allow oil passage. I use Permatex Copper Spray on the copper head gasket, 2 good coats, and put it on tacky. I torque it down per the manual, 40 Lbs. in a criss cross pattern
 

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with stud use it's very advisable to do one or two re-torques after a heat cycle or two .. the stud will and does stretch and will lose some torque value
 

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The only issue with using studs, is that the driver side front stud has an oil passage to the cam area. I use 3 hardened studs, and one factory bolt. I made mine up on a lathe at the local machine shop. I looked at reducing the shank on a stud, but didn't see any real advantage!
 
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