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Discussion Starter #1
2006 H1 650 Prowler
1) Difficult to get in and out of gear even after beefing up the shifter mechanism and adjusting the linkage.
2) Clinks and clanks in idle
3) When warm, the clutch doesnt want to disengage and the engine dies when decelerating to stop.
4) Overall, it does not want to stop when in gear, and when brakes are pushed to stop, the engine dies.
I dont want to prematurely tear the clutch assemblies apart. Anybody have a clue?
Please provide a list of possibles! Or links.
I cannot ride as is!
Thanks
 

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Sounds like a bad belt to me or a clutching issue.. the clinking and clanking might be that one or more of your rollers have turned in their channels. If I were you I would take the drive clutch off clean everything up, make sure you get it back together with the rollers set up right and put a new AC (factory) belt on. Pretty simple fix really, the clutches are really easy to work on these things as long as you have a few tools.

Welcome to the site to both of you! great bunch here and lots of info

Mitch
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies. There is a newer belt at 36mm across top, rollers are still round, however primary has a groove near center, on both insides, ie where the top of the belt rides. Is this the problem? I can hypothesize that the top of the belt gets hung up in the groove ( 1/8 height and approx 1/16" deep). Should I get it to a lathe or do i just need to replace it?
 

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Sounds like wet clutch to me.

How many miles?
Have not put any oil additives have you?


yup its in the wet clutch .... your belt and drive clutches only move after centrifical force engages the wet clutch . if you pull you belt cover off and start the engine look and see if the belt is trying to spin, if so your wet clutch is engaging. the oil you use can play a fator in this . or you could have bad springs on the wet clutch. or even worse metal material built up . first thing to check is the idle speed. werent the 06 carb'd you can adjust the idle with the idle screw. , high idle will cause the wet clutch to engage.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am repairing this for a friend from an auction purchase. I do not know if the oil was maintained correctly, however, the oils that are in it now are fresh and the inside of the clutch housing is clean. I have adjusted the idle to 800 and then back up to 1100 and then 1200, the belts still spin and the primary still turns the secondary. I even put my foot on the secondary sheave to try to stop in idle, and I could not stop the secondary with pressure. How easy is it to replace the wet clutch? I am ready to tear into it tomorrow. Do I need any special tools?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So-
You are saying that with the cover off, while idling around 1100 to 1200 rpm, if the primary is spinning, then the wet clutch is the culprit?
 

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I am repairing this for a friend from an auction purchase. I do not know if the oil was maintained correctly, however, the oils that are in it now are fresh and the inside of the clutch housing is clean. I have adjusted the idle to 800 and then back up to 1100 and then 1200, the belts still spin and the primary still turns the secondary. I even put my foot on the secondary sheave to try to stop in idle, and I could not stop the secondary with pressure. How easy is it to replace the wet clutch? I am ready to tear into it tomorrow. Do I need any special tools?
Thanks
Yeah but it needs to be a wet clutch approved oil. Use the Arctic Cat ACX – Synthetic 4-Cycle Oil as it is wet clutch compatible and works well.
 

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yup pretty straight forward. youll need a 1/2'' impact and some large sockets..... cant remember the sizes:confused: and a #27 torx bit. when you remove the wet clutch drum and housing . be sure and careful not to drop the one way sprag . it looks like a roller bearing and take note of which way it goes in the drum . they like to fall out and the rollers go everywhere!


the wet clutch drum and housing is the shaft that the primary belt clutch goes on . down load the manual for sure,


good luck let us know what you find,
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Found the problemo.!!!! One way bearing was placed on wrong. Yeah the stamp OUTSIDE was toward the crank/one way clutch pack. Some of the rollers were flat in spots while others were completely round. So-the bearing bound up the shaft, from which the primary NEVER stopped spinning. This also explains why the primary is grooved where the belt sits during idling. The inside of the outer bearinig race in the bell was beat up but useable and the face of the inner race on the clutch pack was beat up but useable. Lurching, hard shifting? Look for the culprit to be a bassackwards one way bearing!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for all the comments and help guys.
 

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Found the problemo.!!!! One way bearing was placed on wrong. Yeah the stamp OUTSIDE was toward the crank/one way clutch pack. Some of the rollers were flat in spots while others were completely round. So-the bearing bound up the shaft, from which the primary NEVER stopped spinning. This also explains why the primary is grooved where the belt sits during idling. The inside of the outer bearinig race in the bell was beat up but useable and the face of the inner race on the clutch pack was beat up but useable. Lurching, hard shifting? Look for the culprit to be a bassackwards one way bearing!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for all the comments and help guys.
Nice work. You know I have been told that you don't have to run the one way bearing.
 

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If you leave it out you will not have any engine break.
Really lame coming down a muddy hill.

Installed backwards will cause the issue you have.

Good job finding the bearing issue.

We are all glad we could help.
 
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