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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all im back. I took the prowler out on its first run under my supervision and bent both tie rods and the tranmission started making a clunking noise shortly after trying to climb a black diamond trail. The rear axle started making a clicking noise first then the transmission started clunking. Ive set the beast up on jack stands and put it in gear all four wheels turn but it still clunks. Please help me if you can.

Also, we were wanting to go to knoxville or jellico on the 15th of this month and all the nearby dealers say they are backed up for at least three weeks one said a month or so. Can anybody lead me to a good arctic cat fixer near the Atlanta, Ga area. I live just north of there on I75. Thanks and all help would be greatly appreciated!!!
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BILL
 

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Good luck with that one. I was using bass pro shops but they were taking too long so i decided to find a new one. Took it to a different one this time and just got it back today. Waited on it 6 weeks! I don't think its just cat dealers around here though, i think all dealers around here are slow. It really gets frustrating. You are probably an hour and a half from them, but there is a cat dealer in Piedmont, Al. and Albertville, Al. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good luck with that one. I was using bass pro shops but they were taking too long so i decided to find a new one. Took it to a different one this time and just got it back today. Waited on it 6 weeks! I don't think its just cat dealers around here though, i think all dealers around here are slow. It really gets frustrating. You are probably an hour and a half from them, but there is a cat dealer in Piedmont, Al. and Albertville, Al. Just a thought.
Thanks for the reply...I ended up tearing it down myself. I think my problem might be the drive belt. It had a very good narrow spot on it so im thinking the clutch was probably bouncing back and forth at that spot causing the clanking and the jerking in the rear. I just hope that I can get it back together after my parts show up. If anyone else has had this issue, please chime in!!!
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BILL
 

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try clocking your secondary spring to B-2 if you have white spring in your secondary clutch,I have had Adam at AIRDAM clutch rework my primary clutch ,I had stage 1,2,3 done , and purchased a red secondary spring from EPI and clocked spring at B-1 .It made rattle noise in the helix when slowing down fast so I took it apart again and installed factory white spring in secondary clocked it to B-2 .It's got awesome low end power, good mid range , and no rattling noise coming from clutch area,like I use to hear ,but my prowler was faster with red spring in secondary clocked at B-1.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
try clocking your secondary spring to B-2 if you have white spring in your secondary clutch,I have had Adam at AIRDAM clutch rework my primary clutch ,I had stage 1,2,3 done , and purchased a red secondary spring from EPI and clocked spring at B-1 .It made rattle noise in the helix when slowing down fast so I took it apart again and installed factory white spring in secondary clocked it to B-2 .It's got awesome low end power, good mid range , and no rattling noise coming from clutch area,like I use to hear ,but my prowler was faster with red spring in secondary clocked at B-1.
Wee Wee mucheri...this sounds like french to me!!! I have no idea what im doiing at all. I can barely check the clock on the wall none the less the clock thingy on this thing. Please elaborate a bit for me. Or just plan a trip down to Ga. and fix it hehehe.
 

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try clocking your secondary spring to B-2 if you have white spring in your secondary clutch,I have had Adam at AIRDAM clutch rework my primary clutch ,I had stage 1,2,3 done , and purchased a red secondary spring from EPI and clocked spring at B-1 .It made rattle noise in the helix when slowing down fast so I took it apart again and installed factory white spring in secondary clocked it to B-2 .It's got awesome low end power, good mid range , and no rattling noise coming from clutch area,like I use to hear ,but my prowler was faster with red spring in secondary clocked at B-1.

Have you tried clocked red spring?

What weights in your primary? Are you running out of engine or are you on the rev. limiter?
 

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Well don't no what to say , do you have any mechanical abilities ,do you own any tools,Im no utv mechanic but I use to be a chevy mechanic at a dealer ,so I have a lot of tools to do my own work on my prowler with.I have learned a lot from this site, just by asking other members, I just recently went threw my clutch system, Been playing with the secondary clutch spring to try and get the most out of my prowler.Im sorry I don't know what you can do.Some knowledge of mechanics is recommended. And this site.
 

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Have you tried clocked red spring?

What weights in your primary? Are you running out of engine or are you on the rev. limiter?
Using stock weights in primary, and no I haven't clocked red epi spring yet. It's a little stiffer spring. I think if I clock the red spring to B-2 it might be to stiff to run all the way out secondary clutch, and I think it will slow me down,But it was faster with red spring and used lower rpms to get to 52 mph at 5000 rpms I would say im running out of engine and not even close to rev. limiter. But with the white spring in clocked to B-2 my rpm's are higher and not as fast only 48 mph at 5300 rpm's but awesome low end torque ,Riddler have you replaced your factory spring.
 

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Using stock weights in primary, and no I haven't clocked red epi spring yet. It's a little stiffer spring. I think if I clock the red spring to B-2 it might be to stiff to run all the way out secondary clutch, and I think it will slow me down,But it was faster with red spring and used lower rpms to get to 52 mph at 5000 rpms I would say im running out of engine and not even close to rev. limiter. But with the white spring in clocked to B-2 my rpm's are higher and not as fast only 48 mph at 5300 rpm's but awesome low end torque ,Riddler have you replaced your factory spring.
Not yet,
Team Arctic just brought over the red EPI tonight (thanks)

I have 2 sets of clutches,
Kind of undecided on red and white spring.
I'm leaning toward clocking the red epi and putting all 23g rollers,
Currently running 4 23's and 4 19's
I was hitting my speed limiter around 5700rpm.
Team Arctic also brought over a dynatec cdi sooo.
I am gonna do something with clutch (probbibly undecided until I pull it apart)
Then put the cdi on and go rippen!

Team arctic had a good idea of splitting the difference between b-1 and b-2 and drilling a new hole for the spring.

Too many decisions I will sleep on it and come up with something tomorrow.

Thanks for the info.
 

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Wee Wee mucheri...this sounds like french to me!!! I have no idea what im doiing at all. I can barely check the clock on the wall none the less the clock thingy on this thing. Please elaborate a bit for me. Or just plan a trip down to Ga. and fix it hehehe.

I would check the basics first. Pull off your belt cover and take a look at your drive belt. I may be coming apart.

Seth



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Thanks for the reply...I ended up tearing it down myself. I think my problem might be the drive belt. It had a very good narrow spot on it so im thinking the clutch was probably bouncing back and forth at that spot causing the clanking and the jerking in the rear. I just hope that I can get it back together after my parts show up. If anyone else has had this issue, please chime in!!!
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BILL
If you have a narrow spot on your belt then that would deffinatly cause a problem. Taking the clutch apart is easy, Adam explained it to me the first time i took mine apart, It seems scary when looking at it, but not so bad after it is apart.
You will need an impact gun to remove the bolts holding the primary and secondary clutch on. but just remove the bolt that is closest to the back of the maching first and pull off the outer half of that assembly, then before you can remove the belt or second half of the assembly you must open up the forward most assembly, to do this all you need is one of the screws that hold on your cover, there are three small holes near the center of the front assembly, one of wich is threaded to accept that screw from the cover, thread that screw in that hole and turn a hole bunch of times, as you are doing this you will begin to see the clutch open up, keep opening the clutch till you can remove the belt from the rear shaft.
Clean every thing with brake cleaner before reassembly..

Then replace the belt and reassemble in reverse order, be sure you take that screw out and use red lock tight on the big bolt when puting the rear assembly back togeather, then sip the bolt back on with the impact gun.
then i would Try the bike to be sure the clunk is gone before messing with the spring settings.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you have a narrow spot on your belt then that would deffinatly cause a problem. Taking the clutch apart is easy, Adam explained it to me the first time i took mine apart, It seems scary when looking at it, but not so bad after it is apart.
You will need an impact gun to remove the bolts holding the primary and secondary clutch on. but just remove the bolt that is closest to the back of the maching first and pull off the outer half of that assembly, then before you can remove the belt or second half of the assembly you must open up the forward most assembly, to do this all you need is one of the screws that hold on your cover, there are three small holes near the center of the front assembly, one of wich is threaded to accept that screw from the cover, thread that screw in that hole and turn a hole bunch of times, as you are doing this you will begin to see the clutch open up, keep opening the clutch till you can remove the belt from the rear shaft.
Clean every thing with brake cleaner before reassembly..

Then replace the belt and reassemble in reverse order, be sure you take that screw out and use red lock tight on the big bolt when puting the rear assembly back togeather, then sip the bolt back on with the impact gun.
then i would Try the bike to be sure the clunk is gone before messing with the spring settings.
Thanks for the info...I got the belt off as well as what look to be the torq converter. I didn't use any kind of screw or impact. Nor did I take the back pully off first. I guess I will catch pure hell putting this thing back together.

What are you talking about with the spring tension???
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A similar type of thinking goes into diagnosing car trouble. The moment when you start noticing something out of the ordinary,

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Thanks for the info...I got the belt off as well as what look to be the torq converter. I didn't use any kind of screw or impact. Nor did I take the back pully off first. I guess I will catch pure hell putting this thing back together.

What are you talking about with the spring tension???
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BILL
Sorry about the delay, I have been out of town working.
A while back i found a how to video on youtube about AC clutch assembly. It was on a regular 4 wheeler, but looked to have the same as prowlers. I will try and find it if you still need help..
 

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Here are those videos, they should help you understand the assembly prosess a little better.
Hope this helps..
Please keep us posted on how it all workes out for you..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I made it to Kentucky. The ratcheting noises did get worse the more I rode.
Im going to call A/C tomorrow, to see about this update, warranty, axle replacement, or what ever they are trying to call it. It sounds like te noise is coming from the rear diff. I will say this however, after installing the new tires, 2" spacers, "cat nuts", tie rods, ball joints, and fan override, we had an awesome time.

Worse case sinerio, where can I get the rear chunk in a better setup???
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