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Discussion Starter #1
I'm seriously considering converting my 2006 Prowler to 4 wheel disc brakes and eliminating the crappy driveline brake. For any of you dealers or experts out there......

Can you tell me what parts breakdown I would need? Obviously I'm looking for the easiest and cheapest conversion. So if you know of what parts would bolt up to "most" of my existing equipment that would be appreciated........
 

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that sure would be nice,i have never seen any body do it, but iam sure it could be done,now you know thats gonna set the wife in orbit.i had a 94 300 honda 4x4 and i put a disc brake kit on the front from high lifter.com.
 

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It probably won't be a very cheap conversion but hope you can find some help on this, interesting idea. aren't the newer models 4 wheel disc?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It probably won't be a very cheap conversion but hope you can find some help on this, interesting idea. aren't the newer models 4 wheel disc?
The newer models are 4 wheel disc. The center brake on the driveshafts are just used as the parking brake on the new ones. I would like to know which was the first year of the 4 wheel discs on the Prowlers?

If I can't get the brake clatter out of my system (and I've confirmed motor, etc. is good) then I will be looking to do this. I won't live with the noise. May have to be done in pieces over time due to cost. Heck, I may just drive with front brakes alone for a while. No clatter noise when I do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I found one post on another forum that stated the rear knuckles (part# 0504-613) from a 2009 1000 (maybe other years as well) might mount up to my 2006 A-arms. If this is true then it seems I could add the rotors, hubs, and calipers from a 2009 1000. Can anybody confirm this?

Or maybe if there are any 2009 1000 owners (or other year with part# 0504-613) that could measure the width of the knuckles at the points where the A-arms bolt up to it? Curious if it is the same width spacing as mine?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good question.
It would take new hubs, calipers, rotors, brake lines. This is assuming the control arms would work.
To me it looks like it would take new:

1. knuckles
2. hubs
3. calipers
4. rotors
5. brake lines

From what I can tell, it looks like the rear parts above from a 2009 Prowler 1000 would work, at least from me cross referencing like parts and hardware. Can anybody confirm this? Can anybody think of anything I'm missing besides the bolts?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So it appears part# 0504-613 is the rear knuckles for all year 1000's. I cross referenced the knuckle parts with that of a 2006. It uses the same axle, axle bearing, bushings, and bolt hardware to mount up to the A-arms. So is it safe to assume these knuckles would work on my 2006?

This knuckle is the key. If it would mate up to my A-arms then it would seem that I could purchase all the necessary hardware for a 1000 to fit my '06 (knuckles, hubs, rotors, brake lines, and calipers). Then it seems it wouldn't be too hard to make the conversion other than the expense.

Any chance we can get some dimensions from you 1000 owners? Maybe the width of the two locations where the A-arms mount? Maybe the length between these two mounting points as well? Just figured I could compare these dimensions to my current knuckles....
 

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My XTZ also has a drive line brake for the parking brake.

I will run out there and grab a few measurements, give me a minute.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My XTZ also has a drive line brake for the parking brake.

I will run out there and grab a few measurements, give me a minute.

That would be appreciated. I figure if I had the width dimensions of the knuckles to where they mount to the A-arms that could tell me whether my A-arm mounts would match up. Also the height from lower A-arm mount to upper A-arm mount would give me a good comparison measurement as well.

I guess my one concern would be whether the knuckle mounts are offset or something from my knuckles which would screw everything up.

If anybody is willing to take pictures of the 1000 knuckles that could help as well. I'm going to try and contact my local dealership and hope they have one in stock that maybe I could pull my knuckle off to compare.
 

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3.190" upper a-arm outside measurement.... best approx as tire is on machine and kinda in the way.
2.880" Upper a-arm inside measurement of the flange ( would be bushing to bushing on knuckle)

This info is for the rear upper a-arm and best guess is the lower is the same, real tough with tire on machine.

If #'s are close later today I can get good #'s for you if you still need them as I am gonna put on some Moose / Caribou killing tires before this weekend but can hurry the process for you if needed.

Best of luck and let me know if you want other measurements.
 

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Upper bolt center to Lower bolt center is 7 7/8" approx with tape measure with tire on.

Like I said I can get you exact #'s and pic's if these are ball park with what you got.

Guess I can even get both a 550xt and my 1000xtz next to each other as I am gonna robb the tires off of the 550.

Will get you some good info later.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
3.190" upper a-arm outside measurement.... best approx as tire is on machine and kinda in the way.
2.880" Upper a-arm inside measurement of the flange ( would be bushing to bushing on knuckle)

This info is for the rear upper a-arm and best guess is the lower is the same, real tough with tire on machine.

If #'s are close later today I can get good #'s for you if you still need them as I am gonna put on some Moose / Caribou killing tires before this weekend but can hurry the process for you if needed.

Best of luck and let me know if you want other measurements.
Appreciate the measurements Riddler.

I just went and measured my upper mounts as best I could with the tire on and those upper measurements are very close to what I have. The height between the mounts looks the same as yours as well. So far this conversion is looking promising with the 1000 parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
One problem I can possibly see is the difference on where the shocks mount on the different A-arms. Maybe my shock location would be in the way unless the calipers were placed in the rear. So if the 1000's have the calipers on the rear side then I would probably be okay.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Upper bolt center to Lower bolt center is 7 7/8" approx with tape measure with tire on.

Like I said I can get you exact #'s and pic's if these are ball park with what you got.

Guess I can even get both a 550xt and my 1000xtz next to each other as I am gonna robb the tires off of the 550.

Will get you some good info later.
Appreciate any info you can give me as long as you aren't going out of your way to get it. But if you are going to have things apart anyway, some measurements and pictures would be nice..
 

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Will post pic's later.... in the middle of tire swap then installing new garage door.

But....
Good news.
Upper and lower knuckle are 3 3/4" on 2011 XTZ and ... 2008 550 = same same.

Also the distance between upper mount and lower are the same @ 8"

The brake caliper is rear mounted.

From what I see you should not have a problem doing the swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Will post pic's later.... in the middle of tire swap then installing new garage door.

But....
Good news.
Upper and lower knuckle are 3 3/4" on 2011 XTZ and ... 2008 550 = same same.

Also the distance between upper mount and lower are the same @ 8"

The brake caliper is rear mounted.

From what I see you should not have a problem doing the swap.

Thanks for the info riddler. So far it is looking like a promising conversion. The good thing is too is that it looks like I can slowly start swapping pieces over in sections and still be able to drive like that. Not a "have to" install all pieces at once sort of deal. Which is good for me since I'll have to do it in sections due to $$$.
 

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out west,it looks parts are gonna fit.keep track of all the parts in case i decide to do the swap. as of now i am happy mine are 99 percent noise free...........
 

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Discussion Starter #20
out west,it looks parts are gonna fit.keep track of all the parts in case i decide to do the swap. as of now i am happy mine are 99 percent noise free...........
Actually right now I'm creating a printout of everything I "think" I need from the 1000's for the conversion. This is down to every nut and bolt that would be needed that isn't in my stock configuration. Obviously I won't know for sure until the conversion is underway. But the knuckles are the key. If they work (and it sounds like they should on my A-arms), then every brake part on the 1000 should work on my 650 (minus the parking brake).
 
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