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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. New to the group. Great forum guys, tons of great information.

I have a 2009 AC Prowler XTZ 1000 with a transmission issue, current motor still runs great but has secondary trans problem (I think), might be thrust washer failure, not sure, trans goes into gear after some playing with and once in gear, forward or reverse, it runs perfect, no slipping or grinding, however to get into reverse again or vice versa is sometimes an issue.

1. Can or should I try to fix this trans or is it a ticking time bomb and I am throwing away money? Just pony up for a new generation setup?

2. Will a 2011 motor and trans fit in my machine and be plug and play? I have found a low mileage motor and trans for around $3K.

Thanks for everyone's help with this it is appreciated.
 

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First thing to check is the idle, if just a tad too fast, it will do the same thing. I think 1250 rpm's is the magic number, above that, good luck getting them in gear. That's where I would start, then maybe look a bent shift fork? Gary, what do you think?
 
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Welcome to the site! Great people on here! Suggest taking the shift cable off at the trans and try shifting by hand, if that works look at replacing the cable. The newer model engine should be a plug and play swap. Electrical connections are pretty much inter changeable.
 
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shift cable has been found to be an issue , it's been found that the cable alignment / routing has caused difficult shifts as well as wrong gear selection

suggest looking at the manual and adjusting the cable and that might need rerouting included with that.

also very noisy transmissions are somewhat common on the first year models .... mine since day one has been very noisy to the point of obnoxious and wonder when it will blow up near 6000 miles later it's still loud and working well ... and IF yours has not been heat proofed yet you'll find it VERY hot in the cabin, dynamat the dog house helps that ..... read old threads using the search option and you'll see many posts about that issue.

welcome to the house cram1234

also suggest you fill in your profile and location to aid us in further questions ... so we don't have to ask a question before we answer you question .... read newby instruction in my signature below also :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Responses to replies

Thank you everyone for the quick responses. You have given me some great information so far.

Some additional information that may help diagnose. If the machine is in drive, to get it into reverse, I can go forward 2-3 feet and stab the brakes hard, then it will shift into reverse and vice versa. Weird. Does anyone know why that might happen?

1. All, I have already disconnected the shift cable and shifted manually. Made sure it was solidly in gear and tried it in forward and reverse. I made no difference and getting it into gear was still an issue. Cable / routing is not the issue.

2. Bryan, I will definitely try to adjust the idle to see if this helps, makes sense and would be an easy fix. Fingers crossed, hopefully can try sometime this week.

3. Hoping it is not a bent shift fork or internal issue, not looking forward to splitting cases at this point but will have to if necessary.

4. GTroyer, You are right about the transmission noise and heat in the cabin, all tolerable as long as I know mine is not the only one, wife compared it to a Sherman tank, couldn't argue. Dynamat is definitely on the to do list.

Thats all for right now thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
2011 Prowler XTZ 1000 swap into a 2009 XTZ

Just want to keep this question out there as well in case I need to got this route.

Is a 2011 Prowler XTZ 1000 swap into a 2009 XTZ plug and play? Has anyone done it? If so what needs to be changed?

Thanks again for the help.
 

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Just want to keep this question out there as well in case I need to got this route.

Is a 2011 Prowler XTZ 1000 swap into a 2009 XTZ plug and play? Has anyone done it? If so what needs to be changed?

Thanks again for the help.
FYI .. only a few of us XTZ's on here and even fewer active guys
 

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AC has a different part number on the 2011 engine assembly. Electrical connections, or components should be easy to swap from one motor to the other.
 
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Swapping the engine has several benefits! Mainly spare parts!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
UPDATE Opinions Requested

Hey Guys,

UPDATE


99.9% sure thrust washers failed on the secondary. Let me know if you think I should fix and replace washers or do you think it will just happen again. Found a 2012 motor with 1,000 miles for $2K. Don't want to waste $$, secondary counter shaft assembly, gasket kits, time and effort to rebuild my 2009 trans for it to fail again, possibly catastrophically. Any feedback would be appreciated
 

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For that price I'd go with the motor swap!
 

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I don't have a 1000, but I know all too well on completely gutting the 650/700 motor. I don't mind taking out and tearing apart a motor. It helps you get real familiar with how everything works. But I would price out the "likely" parts you need to replace that failed. Include in that the parts that "should" be upgraded while you are in there. Compare that to the price of your motor swap.

Motor swap might sound great, but then again you don't always know the true condition of what you are getting.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
UPDATE: Swapped out the motor with a 2012 motor with 1,000 miles. Everything went great with the swap but once I started the motor, there appears to be a tapping in the engine. Doesn't appear to be in the lifters, wrist pin or rod bearings. Just a faint tapping that I haven't heard in other engines I have owned. First Arctic Cat I owned. Could be coming from the clutches but not sure. Doesn't get louder when front or rear plug wires are pulled individually so I am pretty sure the rod and wrist pin bearings are good. Are these motors known to be noisy? Any feedback from your experience would be appreciated.
 

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They are indeed noisy! 90% of the noise is from the clutch and drivetrain. The roller bearing motors are pretty tough! Bottom ends are nearly bullet proof, top ends are also stout. If you have oil pressure and oil to the top end they are good to go!
 

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yes these are noisy engines .. at least mine is , never been by another XTZ to compare mine with.
 

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I don't have any experience with the 1000, but I know my 650 would have a slight tapping noise after I rebuilt it. I know everything was rebuilt correctly. I manually rotated the piston and could hear the click. Turns out it was something like the pressure relief valve that was making the tapping noise. Normal noise, but just kind of annoying.
 

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I run several different piston head combos, and the noise concerned me greatly until I remembered the compression release on the camshaft!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sorry for the late reply. But thanks for all of the feedback. Cam compression release is new to me and a definite possibility. Oil pressure and compression are great so I am going to keep a close eye on it and just run it. Fingers crossed.

Thanks again all.
 
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