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Discussion Starter #1
2009 prowler XTZ. Belt just grenaded. It's wrapped up in the secondary and spring in the secondary. How do I disassemble it to untangle the belt? Is it as simple as putting it in a press and removing the one snap ring? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also what's the torque to put tell nut back on? Took a good impact shot to remove it. Or is it not that big of a deal and good and tight will do?
 

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Compress the secondary and remove the snap ring. Keep track of what index holes your spring is in, changing the index settings will make a major change which could be a good thing or a bad thing! EPI makes a clutch tool that works great. I think they show a picture of it on their site. Torque is in the 150-160 range. I bang mine on with an impact and have never had any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Alright cool. I'll look at the tool if need be, but was just going to use a piece of pipe with a small section cut out to access the snap ring.
 

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That is basically the tool! I used 3/8 threaded rod, and a couple of nuts to compress the spring
 

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Not familiar with Sixity. I've found that AC, or EPI seem to be the favorite's. AC belts are hard to beat.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
To me sixity seems like a decent budget 3rd party seller. I've used their cv axles without issues.

Anyways looking a little closer it looks like sixity sells gates and dayco belts. If I'm correct they're both good companies that sell belt pulleys also. And I believe gates males belts for acdelco (general motors). So I believe I won't have any issue saving a little money and going with and gates belt.

Currently working in the time to research how to watch my spring position on secondary clutch disassembly so I can put it back together correctly along with talking to an ex-arctic cat dealer that I may or may not get to do it. A little nervous for me to get anyone to do it since you mentioned the spring has to go back in the same position it came out.
 

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This may help! Spring index is simple to keep track of. Holes are lettered and numbered.

CLUTCH INFO



red rollers = 19 grams = 6000RPM AC # 0823-164
blue rollers = 21 grams = 5500RPM AC # 0823-167
green rollers = 23 grams = 5000RPM AC # 0823-170
white rollers = 25 grams - 4500RPM AC # 3402-483
grey rollers – 28 grams - AC # 0823-295
black rollers – 33 grams AC # 0823-298

17 gram roller - white - 02/375 - 03+400 - part number: 3402-366
19 gram roller - red - prowler 09+700 - part number: 0823-164
21 gram roller - blue - various H1 engines - part number: 0823-167
23 gram roller - green - Tcat engines - part number: 0823-170
25 gram roller - white - 06+ 500 - part number: 3402-482
25 gram roller - white - 00- 09 500 - part number: 3402-483
28 gram roller - gray - 10/650MP - 11+700mp - 12 WildCat - part number: 0823-295
33 gram roller - black - 10+ Tcat mudpro - part number: 0823-298


These RPM numbers associated with each set of weights is only a close guess. every machine will respond differently depending on altitude, tire size, and power adders. the more power you have, the heavier roller you can run for a faster upshift, and more RPMs. if i were you with that power you have, i would run the reds at the LEAST, and possibly even lighten up a set to get them even lighter. in the dunes to run ballz out, about 17-18 grams is where an H1 motor needs to be, and my stage 2 fixed plate work even helps the shiftout even more. it helps keep the rollers lower in the shiftout range, keeping you in a lower gear longer, but allowing you to build the RPMs you need for power, which allows the engine to rev into the power band, and not upshift too fast and bog the motor down.
__________________
///AIRDAM clutch machining
< Airdam Clutches - For People Who Want to Go Fast! >

________________________________________
Info.. From Airdam post in one of my thread's

C-1 is 34 degrees of preload on the spring so yeah its a little more than the others here is a graph to show it all to you


with the helix facing upwards, you turn the top movable sheave clockwise, tightening the spring up giving the spring a pre-load to snap the clutch closed.

the A,B,C settings are incremental in 1,2,3,4 hole positions on the helix itself. meaning if you leave the spring in the

B position and put it in the

#1 hole you twist the sheave 16 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 38 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 70 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 92 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe


A position and put it in the

#1 hole you twist the sheave 25 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 58 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 88 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 106 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe (almost impossible to get it around to line up spring is too stiff)


C position and put it in the

#1 hole you twist the sheave 34 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 69 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 93 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 120+ degrees to line the helix up with the shoe (couldn't get it around there so i am only guessing)


so every time you go up a hole, you are adding more twist to the spring, increasing the spring rate which gives you a faster and snappier backshift. i wish i had a spring load device that would allow me to clock the spring giving it more twist and compress it at the same time to see the increase in spring rate but i do not have that ability. for anyone who has dealt with their own clutch you will know that B-4 is SUPER hard to twist the sheave around and get lined up to, because it is super hard to reach. you can see by the degree of twist on the spring, you can calculate what rate would give you the correct spring tension you want. obviously B-1 is the softest setting you can have, and they go up from there. i'll try and make a list of the softest setting to the stiffest setting for you guys just curious.


B-1 -- 16 degrees
A-1 -- 25 degrees
C-1 -- 34 degrees
B-2 -- 38 degrees
A-2 -- 58 degrees
C-2 -- 69 degrees
B-3 -- 70 degrees
A-3 -- 88 degrees
B-4 -- 92 degrees
C-3 -- 93 degrees
A-4 -- 106 degrees
C-4 -- 120+ degrees
 

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Vary the speed for the first time out, then go for it! Not sure about belt break in. I've just put it on and drove as normal.
 

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as above .. couple heat cycles and then go for it

as to belt ... if you read the different sites you'll see some horror stories as to belt life and durability the two brands that RD suggested are the preferred brands for belt life and durability , the ones you looked at may well be ok but why go do the work twice for the few $$ saved ??? ... our suggestions are just that suggestions but from given from our experiences and use as well as what we have seen n the trails, and in some cases having to rescue rigs that gave up .

I towed a Polaris about 50 miles back to camp all do to a belt and owner using the wrong gear in very steep terrain ... was a scary situation but had to do it deal, I don't want to do that again lol
 

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I won't use a belt that's not OEM


A belt change is a pain in the garage. Not willing to take the chance of needing it in the woods or have to be towed home.
 

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I've got around 7,000 miles on my OEM belt (original with the new motor), I should pull the cover and inspect it but with that many trouble free miles I'll stick with OEM. Some aftermarket parts are good...some bad, I found out with some cheap ball joints I got on Amazon the rubber cracked within a year and they flat out broke off. Luckily I was backing in the garage when they did, I replaced all with OEM.
 

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OEM is usually hard to beat! Only issue is some of the stuff sure seems overpriced! But then again, what isn't! LOL
 
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Discussion Starter #16
OK cool the plan was for a few heat cycles.

And yeah I completely get it on the belts and quality of parts for sure.

I found out how to disassemble my secondary. After seeing it it's much easier to know what's going on and how it works. It's currently in the stock position. But is there any benefits to me going up one notch?
 

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OK cool the plan was for a few heat cycles.

And yeah I completely get it on the belts and quality of parts for sure.

I found out how to disassemble my secondary. After seeing it it's much easier to know what's going on and how it works. It's currently in the stock position. But is there any benefits to me going up one notch?
I tried it up one, seemed like it would never upshift!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well good news. I was able to separate the secondary manually and untangle the belt and then with a pair of pliers and razor I was able to get the rest of the belt out of the spring. So now I just need to wait for my belt to arrive. Thanks for all help.
 
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