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I notice my brake warning light would stay on more and more even after making sure I had released it all the way down. The handle kept popping back up and causing the light to come back on the dash. OK I thought it just needed adjustment. What I found was a section about 10 inches back of the adjustment nuts burnt to a crisp. I had to replace the cable with a new one. I was able to reroute it a little bit away from the hot exhaust, hope this doesn't happen again. Has anyone else fried there cable?
 

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I notice my brake warning light would stay on more and more even after making sure I had released it all the way down. The handle kept popping back up and causing the light to come back on the dash. OK I thought it just needed adjustment. What I found was a section about 10 inches back of the adjustment nuts burnt to a crisp. I had to replace the cable with a new one. I was able to reroute it a little bit away from the hot exhaust, hope this doesn't happen again. Has anyone else fried there cable?
XTZ Parking brake = fire hazard. Search the forum for XTZ fires caused from the park brake. Even if the brake is not engaged it has a lot of movement in the brake rotor and rubs the pads and can cause enough heat under the right circumstance to ignite the plastic clutch housing breather plumbing. Be very careful with it. I removed my park brake for safety reasons.
 

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Mine melted also along with the bottom of the bed, and rear cab panel, the front seat bottom also started until I wrapped the front pipe, these exhaust systems glow cherry hot, just run it at night around 5,000 rpms and then go look at it. As soon as I can get to my trailer it is going back to the dealer under warranty for new body parts, axel seals, and front end making snapping noises when in 4wd
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll give the heat wrap a try, removing the brake isn't an option. I park on some steep hill sides here in Idaho.
 

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I don't use mine most of the time, but if you put your shifter in the opposite direction of the movement of the vehicle(I think) it acts like a parking brake thanks to the one-way clutch.
 

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You can also buy the reflective wrap to put over the cable itself too. Maybe you have seen it. It has fiberglass mat inside of reflective aluminum that goes on over like battery cables fuel line etc. Some of them even velcrow together for easy install over hard to get over ebrake cables. That and the exhaust wrap will work great. A lot of places sell that stuff. Especailly speed shops or like Summits



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Hey guys.. real good info, I just learned something.. my question is, will I encounter this problem with my '10 700 xtx?
 

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best to look at your cable routing and see ... they may or may not have paid attention during assembly .... bottom line it's a known issue and better to be pro-active ..
 

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For sure... I'll definitely be checking mine over before I take it out this spring.. after the six feet of snow melts... lol
 

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Ok, right on.. thought it might have been a big engine prob..
 

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No the 700's are a pretty descent utv. I know you had a belt issue but hopefully you guys have that under control now. Heck if you have some time run down to the ac dealer and have them take the cowl off a xtz and you can see the ebrake cable and the front exhaust pipe.
Ya, sounds like I'll have a pretty good setup as soon as I snorkel my machine to raise the location of my cvt "in and out".. This thanks to all the invaluable help I got from the great people on this site.. ya I could go check it out.. the dealer in town has a demo they're more than happy to let me look at.. from what I can remember of my setup is the cable is free and clear of any chance of burning but I'll definitely have it on my check list for the pre-season tinkering.
 

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Just a note: I just checked my 2011 XTZ and the e-brake cable is routed away from the exhaust and it also has a thermal wrap on it. I guess this was corrected for this model year.
 

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Been to cold to go out (-30 windchill) and check but I'm pretty sure my 2010 is wrapped also.
 
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