XTZ Rumor
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Well it would not make a 1400 cc motor due to the stroke difference.The 950 xtz motor is not a 1000 cc's so right there you have a 1350.And the 700 motor has a longer stroke than the 950 motor thus the 700 cc's is from a longer stroke and a much bigger bore.So really the 700 cylinder is probably to long for the 950 motor unless they are doing a stroker crank and a long rod engine.I have the stroke differences here for you.The 950 engine has a 92 mm bore and a 71.6 mm stroke.The 700 motor is a 102 mm bore with a 85 mm stroke.So you have a 13.4 mm difference in stroke.So you would have half of 13.4 to make up on the total length of the cylider.It should be 6.7 mm top and 6.7 mm on the bottom.
So with a 71.6 mm stroke from the 950 engine.And a 102 mm bore from the 700 engine you get a 1170 cc engine.
So with a 71.6 mm stroke from the 950 engine.And a 102 mm bore from the 700 engine you get a 1170 cc engine.
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Gee wiz Sandchris Your brain must be as big as my truck. I ran it by my motor guy at A.C. and your rite.
He wants to know if your looking for a job.
He wants to know if your looking for a job.
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He not only has a Brain but he is a Good Guy too!
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They could probably could not afford me.
Just kidding.
They would have to move their r and d dept. to yuma,az. Just so we did not have so far to go testing.LOL.
Just kidding.They would have to move their r and d dept. to yuma,az.
Just so we did not have so far to go testing.LOL.
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I call them like I see them.
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Come on I've been their four times the weather is to die for 30 below and 35 mph winds it was great.
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I think we are all lucky to have guys with brains and common sense on this forum.
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Az native's don't function well at those temps.Besides those guys have forgotten more than we will ever know.
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Even at 1170cc, which any vendor would call a 1200cc, do all the parts bolt on? Could this be a factory bolt on big bore kit, or was somebody just dreaming?
I like this quote because I talked with speedwerx about there big bore and it was actually like 1039 or something like that. I just laughed. what a waste.
I just keep trying to find ways to get the most out of the 951 we have it is already the biggest availible, come on guys those 840 Teryxs are making over 80whp NA. We just need to get these things figured out they have more potential than anything else availible. ( sorry sandchris even you have to believe this Right?)
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Oh they will do 80-90 probably more.I have only looked at these motors from the outside and on the parts look up on AC's site.The potential is there.There is some power in the heads and cams in these motors guaranteed.The first guy that invests in the cylinder heads with porting cams and maybe valve springs oh and a higher revving cdi and then the clutch work is gonna be pleasantly surprised.And don't forget some more compression too if you want to go further.
Or you could leave the motor internals stock and turbo charge it.Don't get me wrong you will still have to get the clutching down.But you are gonna have to do that either way.I know some people think that it is a big deal and it scares the hell out of them.But I gotta tell you guys dollar for dollar it is better.I will get into the money thing for a moment.Lets do a fictional build aspirated.I will try to keep this as real as possible.
1. Head porting x2 is 400.00-600.00 total for 2 heads
2. Cam shafts x2 is 300.00 total
3. Valve springs x16 400.00 total
4. High compression stock bore pistons x2 550.00 Off of speed werx web site.
5. New gaskets head and base. guessing 50.00-80.00.
6. Fuel controller 200.00-300.00
7 Exhaust 500.00-800.00
8. Labor free if you do it your self. 0.00
9. Labor if you pay to have motor work done.500.00-1000.00
So lets add this up on the low side and the high.
Ok the low side if you do the work yourself with out dyno tuning is 2900.00 for the stuff above.
If you pay someone else to do all that 500.00 it is 3400.00 plus dyno tuning.
Now the high number is 4000.00 and that would include all the higher numbers that are probably more realistic.And for that number you would have dyno tuning on the fuel controller.And hopefully labor to install all this stuff.I am still probably low even on the high number though.
Ok so lets say we get all this stuff done for a deal at 3500.00 and we make 85 hp to the tire.That is a respectable ride right?I think so.
Allright now lets talk about the turbo ride.No bull **** if you can weld and have minimal skills you can do it yourself for around 2000.00.If you can't weld and have minimal skills you can buy a kit for 3000.00-4000.00 and install it yourself.If you have no skills and have to pay someone to install a purchased kit for you I am thinking 4500.00.
And you will have at least 100 probably more to the tire.It will be quiet and quick.It won't be tempramental.It will start when it is cold, it will idle like a stocker.
In my opinion You will get more bang for your buck dollar for dollar with a turbo.But they are not for everone or everyones budget.
The nice thing about a aspirated engine is you can add a little at a time.Sooner or later there will be some bigger ticket items to get big numbers.
The nice thing about a turbo motor is you are not adding more compression and rpm and noise all the time.It is just when you need it it is there.I gotta tell you guys turbos on cvt vehicles is a perfect match.
Or you could leave the motor internals stock and turbo charge it.Don't get me wrong you will still have to get the clutching down.But you are gonna have to do that either way.I know some people think that it is a big deal and it scares the hell out of them.But I gotta tell you guys dollar for dollar it is better.I will get into the money thing for a moment.Lets do a fictional build aspirated.I will try to keep this as real as possible.
1. Head porting x2 is 400.00-600.00 total for 2 heads
2. Cam shafts x2 is 300.00 total
3. Valve springs x16 400.00 total
4. High compression stock bore pistons x2 550.00 Off of speed werx web site.
5. New gaskets head and base. guessing 50.00-80.00.
6. Fuel controller 200.00-300.00
7 Exhaust 500.00-800.00
8. Labor free if you do it your self. 0.00
9. Labor if you pay to have motor work done.500.00-1000.00
So lets add this up on the low side and the high.
Ok the low side if you do the work yourself with out dyno tuning is 2900.00 for the stuff above.
If you pay someone else to do all that 500.00 it is 3400.00 plus dyno tuning.
Now the high number is 4000.00 and that would include all the higher numbers that are probably more realistic.And for that number you would have dyno tuning on the fuel controller.And hopefully labor to install all this stuff.I am still probably low even on the high number though.
Ok so lets say we get all this stuff done for a deal at 3500.00 and we make 85 hp to the tire.That is a respectable ride right?I think so.
Allright now lets talk about the turbo ride.No bull **** if you can weld and have minimal skills you can do it yourself for around 2000.00.If you can't weld and have minimal skills you can buy a kit for 3000.00-4000.00 and install it yourself.If you have no skills and have to pay someone to install a purchased kit for you I am thinking 4500.00.
And you will have at least 100 probably more to the tire.It will be quiet and quick.It won't be tempramental.It will start when it is cold, it will idle like a stocker.
In my opinion You will get more bang for your buck dollar for dollar with a turbo.But they are not for everone or everyones budget.
The nice thing about a aspirated engine is you can add a little at a time.Sooner or later there will be some bigger ticket items to get big numbers.
The nice thing about a turbo motor is you are not adding more compression and rpm and noise all the time.It is just when you need it it is there.I gotta tell you guys turbos on cvt vehicles is a perfect match.
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Holly crap Chris i just called 911 my dam head just blew up. Now that you have layed down all the facts this is just a rumor. Dam I need a hair dryer for Christmas,Birthday,Fathersday and so on.
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105 Posts
I told you his brain is as big as my pickup!
Sandchris if you still have my # give me a call I have an idea.
Jim
Sandchris if you still have my # give me a call I have an idea.
Jim
Chris you come up with the bore and stroke #s and bbk #s but nobody knows what the compression of this motor is? I have been considering high compresion pistons but need to know what stock is. Why spend the money on 11:1 if stock is 10:1 you know what I meen?
I have some ideas I will be testing very soon and will post my results as soon as testing is complete. I believe I have come up with a great plan to get the most NA bolt on power you can out of this motor with out spending alot of money.
I have some ideas I will be testing very soon and will post my results as soon as testing is complete. I believe I have come up with a great plan to get the most NA bolt on power you can out of this motor with out spending alot of money.
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Adubaz, the stock compression ratio is 9.2 to 1.So kinda conservative for performance but perfect for longevity or super or turbo charging.In my mind 10-10.5 to 1 is a good place to be with this thing.Maybe 11 to 1 or a little more with premium pump fuel.And of course 12 to 1 or more with more octane.I don't see it getting to impressive with 9.2.Don't get me wrong there is gains to be made with a cool clean air flow in and some better breathing out.
You know the deal adubaz you have been down this road before I think.Get the intake and exhaust to flow and put enough fuel with it and it will be better.Don't forget the clutching though when you do mods.
You know the deal adubaz you have been down this road before I think.Get the intake and exhaust to flow and put enough fuel with it and it will be better.Don't forget the clutching though when you do mods.
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338 Posts
Chris didnt tell you all that he has in his garage the secret to making the turbo system work real easy.
He has a simple computer system that is boost sensitive and it needs no fancy programming or any special tools or knowledge. Your ride will run and idle just like stock and when your under boost it will fuel it just right. Very simple and inexpensive. Top Secret **** right there but if you talk with chris he will probably sell you one. Same thing I run and its awesome.
He has a simple computer system that is boost sensitive and it needs no fancy programming or any special tools or knowledge. Your ride will run and idle just like stock and when your under boost it will fuel it just right. Very simple and inexpensive. Top Secret **** right there but if you talk with chris he will probably sell you one. Same thing I run and its awesome.
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