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ok guys i just got my car back from the shop , i had to have a new short block installed under warranty because of the thrust washers breaking and taking out the transmission .

ive been talking to a few of you , since this happened and i know of 4 of us that have had the same problem . it seems that all of our problems have started after a belt or axle breakage under full power or load . it seams as if the shock from the break it casuing the washer to shatter .

now i did get a few minutes to look over my destroyed parts when i was at the dealer and it looks like a lack of lube to the mainshaft trans gears and washers . the gears showed signs of heat and scoring on the teeth and the washers were blue in color .

my question is has anyone else seen this , and or found a cure for it ? i talked with another member about drilling the case above the trans gears and installing a return lube nozzle off of the return side of the c oil cooler . my next question is should we be adding a lil more oil to the system than is recomended because at high rpm the trans is starved for oil ?

weve also talked about having the washers CRYOED or made from 300M but if its a lack of oil thats casuing them to become brittle and then break when the machine is shocked by a belt explosion or axle break the fancy washers are only a bandaid to a more severe problem ......


i have little faith left in my car right now and im torn between letting it go and trying to solve more of the issues that it has . i would love to hear everyones idea and experinces on this .

thanks, SoAzCat
 

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Here is a picture of one of the washers that gives way and goes through your motor. This can be found on the XTZ1000 secondary transmission assembly.
 

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ok guys i just got my car back from the shop , i had to have a new short block installed under warranty because of the thrust washers breaking and taking out the transmission .

ive been talking to a few of you , since this happened and i know of 4 of us that have had the same problem . it seems that all of our problems have started after a belt or axle breakage under full power or load . it seams as if the shock from the break it casuing the washer to shatter .

now i did get a few minutes to look over my destroyed parts when i was at the dealer and it looks like a lack of lube to the mainshaft trans gears and washers . the gears showed signs of heat and scoring on the teeth and the washers were blue in color .

my question is has anyone else seen this , and or found a cure for it ? i talked with another member about drilling the case above the trans gears and installing a return lube nozzle off of the return side of the c oil cooler . my next question is should we be adding a lil more oil to the system than is recomended because at high rpm the trans is starved for oil ?

weve also talked about having the washers CRYOED or made from 300M but if its a lack of oil thats casuing them to become brittle and then break when the machine is shocked by a belt explosion or axle break the fancy washers are only a bandaid to a more severe problem ......


i have little faith left in my car right now and im torn between letting it go and trying to solve more of the issues that it has . i would love to hear everyones idea and experinces on this .

thanks, SoAzCat
Could that other ting have caused that problem too?(wet clutch delete)
 

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Might be related to a lack of oil though. I discovered that the late model 2010 XTZ 1000 has a new redesigned short block with a few different crank case vents and they removed the oil pump diverter so the engine makes better oil pressure. The lack of oil to the secondary transmission shaft may have cause these washers to fail.
 

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You got the new style short block or the old one? I wonder if they addressed this problem in the new bottom end? Obviously ac and cat care know there is a problem cause they are warranting them pretty regular now. What caused them to change them? Is this just a change for the xtz or is it for the thundercat as well?
Just thinking that that thrust washer or shim should be wider or thicker width wise. I don't know if parts on the shaft that that shim shares could be machined some to accommodate thicker shims for the xtz. I just have not heard that the thunder cats are having theses issues. Is it just the xtz and the heavier loads?



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You got the new style short block or the old one? I wonder if they addressed this problem in the new bottom end? Obviously ac and cat care know there is a problem cause they are warranting them pretty regular now. What caused them to change them? Is this just a change for the xtz or is it for the thundercat as well?
Just thinking that that thrust washer or shim should be wider or thicker width wise. I don't know if parts on the shaft that that shim shares could be machined some to accommodate thicker shims for the xtz. I just have not heard that the thunder cats are having theses issues. Is it just the xtz and the heavier loads?
The old style engine isn't available any longer, when I ordered 2 replacement engines for customers, both times they subbed over to the new engine. You have to also change out the bracket that mounts the shift cable to the engine casing.

It does have quite a few different case changes. I think oiling or should I say, lack of, is the culprit here. I've thought about running an external liine and tap into the case to add oiling capability to that area. Haven't had time to dig into the case and figure it out yet though...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Chris ill have the half agree with you . i too beleive that the washers broke from a shock load . but after the trans was removed and the gears inspected , they deffinantly showed signs of lack of lube . my washers were blue in color and the gears had considerble amounts of wear on the teeth . i think that the lack of lube caused the washers become brittle and when combined with the shock of a belt or axle explosion is enough to break them .
 

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the shim in the picture above didnt look like it had an oiling problem. just not thick/strong enuf for the application its being used for. after all this is just a 4 wheeler eng being ask to haul around twice the weight it was designed for. i also believe that anyone living in areas w/o extreme temp swings to be using a straight 40-50 weight oil. just be smart about letting your eng warm up before standing on the gas, which you should be doing anyway. anything under straight 30 wt oil in these engs under these loads is just plain assenine! however i would agree to an added oil line to spray onto the tranny gears because of the added loads on them. especially the counter shaft gear that turning the bevel gear. now all we need is one of you dealers or other individuals who has one apart draw us up some measurements as to where to dril and tap the hole in the correct location for the fitting. preferably where theres enuf meat in the case to hold good.
 

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The new short block has a change made to the oil pump. If you look at the 2009 drawing and compare it to the 2010 late serial numbers you will see that they removed the oil flow diverter or what ever AC calls it. I can tell you first hand that the new motors produce nearly twice the oil pressure as the old. They also changed the crankcase breather system by removing the breather that sits right above the secondary trans shaft in question and relocated it to the rear cylinder freeze plug. The center crank breather is redesigned as well.
 

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The new short block has a change made to the oil pump. If you look at the 2009 drawing and compare it to the 2010 late serial numbers you will see that they removed the oil flow diverter or what ever AC calls it. I can tell you first hand that the new motors produce nearly twice the oil pressure as the old. They also changed the crankcase breather system by removing the breather that sits right above the secondary trans shaft in question and relocated it to the rear cylinder freeze plug. The center crank breather is redesigned as well.
do you know the vin range or birthdates where this change took place?
 

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do you know the vin range or birthdates where this change took place?

Arctic Cat : 2010 PROWLER 1000 XTZ 4X4 DESERT RED (Engine Serial Number 0950T80010060 and Up) (U2010P4W4EUSI)


Arctic Cat : 2010 PROWLER 1000 XTZ 4X4 METALLIC CAT GREEN (Engine Serial Number 0950T80010060 and Up) (U2010P4W4EUSA)
 

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flying121 when we talked you said something about shifting. What did you mean ?
Can you shift between R, H, L with no problem or do you need to move your car back and forth to engage the different ranges? Do you have to turn your ignition off to get the Cat to change between the ranges? If so drain our oil and pull the pan that houses the drain plug (4 bolts) and check for the broken washer and metal deposits. Could be the secondary trans thrust washer.
 
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